The Everest North Col Expedition is a challenging and exhilarating mountaineering endeavor that involves scaling the northern route of Mount Everest, the world's highest peak. Starting from Tibet, climbers make their way through the treacherous and awe-inspiring landscape of the Himalayas, crossing high-altitude glaciers, icy crevasses, and facing extreme weather conditions. As they ascend towards the North Col, a rocky ridge at approximately 7,000 meters (23,000 feet) above sea level, they must acclimatize and overcome physical and mental obstacles. The final push to the summit demands exceptional mountaineering skills, endurance, and teamwork, as the climbers tackle the notorious "Death Zone" above 8,000 meters (26,000 feet), where the oxygen levels are critically low, and even the simplest tasks become exhausting. Nevertheless, reaching the summit of Everest from the North Col is an unparalleled achievement, rewarding climbers with breathtaking views and an indescribable sense of accomplishment that only a handful of people in the world can claim to have experienced.
Everest North Col at 7000 metres in Tibet is a popular climbing destination for intermediate climbers. The spectacular location and awe-inspiring view from the summit are rewards of climbing Everest North Col.
It has been almost 100 years since the first expedition to Everest began in 1922. British expedition team led by George Mallory attempted summiting Everest but failed climbing past North Col. He and his climbing friend, Irvin, were the first to reach the North Col. Other climbers on higher camps from the same expedition state that Irvin and Gorge reached the summit, but never made back, leaving the first Everest summit a controversy. If it is true, the hailed Tenzing and Hillary will be the second Everest summiteer.
The Chinese climbing community believes that the first successful ascent to Everest North Col was on the 25th of May in 1960. But, the lack of photo evidence disqualified this expedition as a success. The Chinese Government had issues with the Tibetan State between 1950 to 1980 that halted the North Col and Everest expedition. Hence, the first recorded successful summit of Everest North Col was in 1975. An expedition team from China submitted North Col with valid photo proof.
Everest North Col is much colder than the South of Nepal side. The wind speed and steep ridges make the climbing arduous. Also, unlike the Nepali face, North Col on Tibet is not easily accessible by helicopter for rescue in emergencies. The over-conscious Chinese government limits helicopter flight over this terrain.
The trip to Everest Base Camp in Tibet is in the heaven of the Himalayas. The inspiring Tibetan Plateau, Xegar at 4,300 metres, Thang La at 5,200 metres, and Nyalam are beautiful landscapes of Tibet.
The distinctive shaped Lhakpa Ri, Rongbuk Glacier, and Magic Highway are en route to North Col.
The rewarding North Col summit lets you explore humongous mountains adjacent to Everest. 8,188 metre's Cho Oyu, east Kangshung, East face of Lhotse, 7,543 metre's Changtse, 8,463 metre's Makalu, and Everest summit at 8,848 metres are visible from North Col. This expedition lets you comprehend the magnificent Everest summit route from the China side. You'll also get the chance to witness the rustic Tibetan lifestyle immersed with preserved cultures for ages.
Everest North Col expedition begins from Everest Base Camp in Tibet at 5,200 metres. We'll climb to East Rongbuk Glacier, Mid Camp at 5,800 metres, via the legendary Magic Highway. Traversing Rongbuk Glacier might take time because it is widespread over 400 metres.
The climbers often term Mid Camp as Intermediate Camp or Japanese Camp. From Mid Camp at 5,800 metres, we'll climb to 6,350 metres tall Advanced Base Camp, which sits right below the North Col. We'll then climb to Everest Camp I at 7,000 metres, also known as North Col.
Climbing guides and expedition managers from World Expedition Nepal will give a pre-expedition briefing a day before we set out for the North Col expedition.
Nearly a month-long North Col expedition begins with a drive from Kathmandu to Rasuwagadhi. There's also an option of flying from Kathmandu to Lhasa.
We'll drive to Gyirong from Rasuwagadhi and acclimatise here the next day. Hiking around hills and sightseeing help you acclimatise.
The drive continues as we head to Tingri at 4,300 metres and acclimatise. Century-old Buddhist monasteries of Tingiri are worth visiting.
We'll take another road trip to Chinese Base Camp at 5,200 metres. We'll acclimatise at Chinese Base Camp and hike to Middle Camp at 5,700 metres. It's a tiring hike of six hours. We'll ultimately hike to Advanced Base Camp at 6,485 metres and start a 14 days long climbing period.
Our logistic team will organise tented camps for our stay at different High Camps. We'll practice routine climbs, acclimatise, and rotational climbs. We'll climb the North Col summit in the stable weather window and return to Chinese Base Camp the same day. We'll have a base camp cleaning session before leaving for Nylam.
Everest North Col expedition has mixed accommodation. We'll be staying at tea houses till Tingri. Tea houses en route offer hygienic meals with varied food items on the menu. Overnight sleep will also be comfortable in these places.
We'll start accommodating in tented camps from the Chinese base camp to High Camps and during the climbing period. Our efficient logistics will prepare meals for us. You'll stay in tents on a twin sharing basis. We'll guarantee that you'll get the best accommodation throughout this expedition.
The PD graded climb of North Col is one of the easy 7,000 metres climbs. We'll be climbing only to Everest Camp I, which makes the North Col expedition not seriously a mountain climb. Climbing North Col gives you a substantial boost and training for summiting Everest later. The climbing difficulty is moderate, using fixed rope, crampons, and ice axes. The glaciers and snow slopes en route to Camp I are low-angled. Hence, the climb to North Col is straightforward. But, previous experience of some 6,000 metres climb is a must for the North Col expedition.
Also, physical strength and fitness level have to be on top. Blood pressure and diabetes level in the body must be in good condition for this expedition. For rest, our climbing guides will support you during the entire North Col expedition and summit climb.
World Expedition Nepal focuses on and promotes peak climbing and expeditions in Nepal. We have been providing tour services since 2017 by registered and licensed under Nepal Government. In the Tibet expeditions, we'll make sure that you'll have complete joy alongside the adventure of high-altitude climbing.
Our professional and experienced guides will ensure your utmost comfort and safety on Everest North Col climbing. We'll make this tour an unforgettable experience for you. Also, the health and safety of our clients is our primary motto. Our guides for these expeditions have mountain skills certification. They come with expertise in mountain medicine, first aid, and rescue operations.
We have fixed departures for the Everest North Col expedition for Autumn 2022 and Spring 2023. Book your trip with us and experience the thrill of climbing this 7,000 metres peak.
Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal, offers a mix of modern amenities and traditional charm. As the gateway to the Himalayas, it serves as the starting point for many mountaineering and trekking adventures, including the Everest North Col Expedition. Take some time to appreciate the unique culture, history, and hospitality of this vibrant city before embarking on your journey to the majestic mountains.
Arrival in Kathmandu (1,345 meters / 4,413 feet) transfer to a hotel.
Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
Today, we will focus on these for the further expedition.
Last Minute Shopping:
Overnight Stay in Kathmandu.
The drive from Kathmandu to Zhangmu, the border town on the Nepal-Tibet border, is a scenic and adventurous journey. Here's an outline of the typical route and key points along the way:
Kathmandu to Kodari (Nepal side):
Kodari to Nepal-Tibet Friendship Bridge:
Nepal-Tibet Friendship Bridge to Zhangmu (China side):
Overnight stay in Zhangmu.
The drive from Zhangmu to Tingri is an adventurous and scenic journey through the rugged terrain of the Himalayas. Here's a general outline of the route and key points along the way:
Zhangmu to Lalung La Pass:
Lalung La Pass (5,050 meters / 16,568 feet):
Descent to Nyalam:
Nyalam to Tingri:
The total drive from Zhangmu to Tingri typically takes around 6-7 hours, but the duration can vary depending on factors such as weather conditions, road conditions, and any necessary stops along the way.
An acclimatization day in Tingri is a crucial part of preparing for high-altitude activities like the Everest North Col Expedition. Acclimatization allows our body to gradually adjust to the reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations, helping to minimize the risk of altitude-related illnesses. Here's how you might spend an acclimatization day in Tingri:
Rest and Relaxation:
Short Hike or Walk:
Hydration and Nutrition:
Explore the Surroundings:
Take Altitude Medication (if prescribed):
Monitor Your Health:
Overnight stay in Tingri.
The drive from Tingri to the Chinese Base Camp (also known as the Everest Base Camp on the north side) is an exciting and challenging journey, as we ascend to even higher altitudes. Here's an overview of what you might expect during this leg of the journey:
Departure from Tingri:
Scenic Route and Changing Landscape:
Rugged and Windy Roads:
Altitude and Acclimatization:
Arrival at Chinese Base Camp:
Setting Up Camp:
Rest and Acclimatization:
Rest and acclimatization at the Chinese Base Camp is a crucial phase of the Everest North Col Expedition. This period allows climbers to further adapt to the high altitude and prepare their bodies for the challenges ahead. Here's how climbers typically spend their time during the rest and acclimatization phase at the base camp:
Rest and Recovery:
Briefings and Planning:
Hydration and Nutrition:
Overnight stay in Base Camp.
The trek from the Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp is a significant step in the Everest North Col Expedition. This section involves traversing the Rongbuk Glacier, ascending to higher altitudes, and advancing closer to the more challenging terrain of the mountain. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this phase:
Departure from Chinese Base Camp:
Entering the Rongbuk Glacier:
Crossing the Rongbuk Glacier:
Ascending to Middle Camp:
Arriving at Middle Camp:
Preparations at Middle Camp:
Overnight say in Middle Camp.
The trek from Middle Camp to Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC) marks a significant milestone in the Everest North Col Expedition, as climbers ascend to an even higher altitude and get closer to the challenging terrain of the mountain. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this phase:
Departure from Middle Camp:
Ascending through the Rongbuk Glacier:
Crossing the Glacier Moraine:
Arriving at Everest Advanced Base Camp:
Settling into Advanced Base Camp:
Rest and Acclimatization:
Planning and Preparation:
Ice Climbing Training (if necessary):
Hydration and Nutrition:
On this period , we prepared nad comtinue to climb nearer to the summit.
The period of rest and final preparations is a crucial phase before attempting the summit push in the Everest North Col Expedition. During this time, climbers focus on maximizing their physical and mental readiness, fine-tuning their plans, and ensuring that all necessary equipment and logistics are in place. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this phase:
Rest and Recovery:
Hydration and Nutrition:
Final Gear Check:
Summit Push Strategy:
Communication and Teamwork:
Rest for the Final Push:
The summit push is the final and most challenging phase of the Everest North Col Expedition. It involves the ascent from Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC) to the higher camps and ultimately to the summit of the North Col of Mount Everest. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this critical stage:
Departure from ABC:
Ascending to Higher Camps:
Fixed Rope Sections:
The "Death Zone":
Mental and Physical Challenges:
Reaching the Summit:
Celebration and Photos:
Return to ABC:
Overnight stay in Base Camp.
This day is kept as a contingency day to account for any unforeseen circumstances such as inclement weather, difficult climbing conditions, or personal factors that may have affected the summit attempt on the previous day.
However, if the summit was not possible on the previous day due to unfavorable conditions, this contingency day allows for another attempt to reach the summit.
In case the contingency day is not needed for the summit attempt, it can also be used as an extra acclimatization day or for adjusting the itinerary as required.
Overnight: Tented Camp at Everest Advanced Base Camp.
An early morning drive to Gyirong is a continuation of the journey after completing the Everest North Col Expedition and descending from the higher altitudes. The drive to Gyirong allows climbers to return to lower elevations and gradually transition back to more comfortable conditions. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this leg of the journey:
Departure from Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC):
Descent from Higher Camps:
Return to Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC):
Drive to Gyirong:
Transition to Lower Elevations:
Arrival in Gyirong:
Check-in at the Hotel:
Celebrations and Reflections:
Rest and Recovery:
The early morning drive from Gyirong to Kathmandu is the final leg of the journey, completing the round-trip from the Everest North Col Expedition. After descending from the high altitudes and spending time in Gyirong, we will head back to Kathmandu to conclude their mountaineering adventure. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this part of the journey:
Departure from Gyirong:
Crossing the Nepal-China Border:
Descending from Higher Elevations:
Arrival in Kathmandu:
Check-in at the Hotel:
Rest and Recovery:
Celebrations and Farewell:
Cultural Exploration (optional):
In Kathmandu, the final day after the Everest North Col Expedition is a mix of emotions, including a sense of accomplishment, camaraderie, and a touch of nostalgia as climbers prepare to say goodbye to the friends they've made during the journey. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience on their last day in Kathmandu:
Final Packing and Organizing:
Celebration and Toasts:
Group Photo and Memorabilia:
Saying Goodbye to New Friends:
Gratitude and Reflections:
Exploring Kathmandu (Optional):
Rest and Reflection:
The departure from Nepal marks the end of the Everest North Col Expedition and the climbers' return to their home countries. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during their departure from Nepal:
Farewell and Gratitude:
Immigration and Security:
Reflecting on the Journey:
The Everest North Col Expedition is considered a highly challenging and demanding mountaineering endeavor. It requires climbers to possess a high level of physical fitness, mental strength, technical climbing skills, and experience in high-altitude mountaineering. Here are some of the factors that contribute to the difficulty of the Everest North Col Expedition:
The Everest North Col reaches heights of approximately 7,162 meters (23,497 feet). Climbers enter the "Death Zone" (above 8,000 meters / 26,000 feet) during the summit push, where oxygen levels are critically low, making it extremely challenging for the body to function.
Cold and Harsh Conditions:
The expedition takes place in an extreme alpine environment with extremely cold temperatures, strong winds, and unpredictable weather conditions. Climbers must be well-prepared for harsh weather and be equipped with suitable gear.
The route to the Everest North Col involves sections of technical climbing, including crossing crevasses, negotiating steep ice slopes, and navigating fixed ropes. Climbers need to have ice and snow climbing skills, as well as experience in using mountaineering equipment.
The Everest North Col Expedition typically lasts several weeks. The extended period at high altitudes and in challenging conditions puts a strain on climbers' endurance and stamina.
Acclimatization is crucial for success in high-altitude mountaineering. Climbers must spend several weeks at progressively higher elevations to allow their bodies to adapt to reduced oxygen levels. Acclimatization is both physically and mentally demanding.
Risk of Altitude Sickness:
At extreme altitudes, climbers are at risk of altitude-related illnesses such as acute mountain sickness (AMS), high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE), and high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). Recognizing and managing these conditions is essential for a safe expedition.
The Everest North Col is located in a remote and rugged part of the Himalayas. Access to medical facilities and rescue services can be limited, adding to the expedition's difficulty.
Physical and Mental Challenges:
Climbers will face physical exhaustion, fatigue, and mental challenges throughout the expedition. Maintaining a positive mindset, mental fortitude, and determination are crucial for success.
Teamwork and Leadership:
Successful mountaineering expeditions rely on strong teamwork and effective leadership. The ability to work together, communicate, and support one another is essential for a safe and successful climb.
The cost of the Everest North Col Expedition can vary widely depending on several factors, including the expedition operator, the level of service and support provided, the duration of the expedition, the number of climbers in the group, and the logistics involved. The cost for a standard Everest North Col Expedition typically ranges from $20000to $25,000 USD per person.
The price of the expedition usually includes the following:
The best months for the Everest North Col Expedition are generally during the spring and autumn seasons when the weather and climbing conditions are most favorable. These months offer a higher chance of clear skies, stable weather, and lower risks of storms and extreme cold. The two primary climbing seasons for the Everest North Col Expedition are as follows:
Spring Season (April to May):
Autumn Season (September to October):
For the Everest North Col Expedition, the required permit documents include:
Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) Permit:
Climbing Permit for the North Col:
Liaison Officer (LO) Fee:
Tibet Travel Permit (TTB) and Alien Travel Permit (ATP):
Mount Everest National Park Entry Permit:
The North Col, also known as the "North Saddle," is a prominent and challenging pass located at the northern edge of Mount Everest's Northeast Ridge. It serves as a crucial gateway for climbers attempting the ascent of Everest from the Tibet (China) side. The term "col" refers to a low point or pass between two peaks, and in the case of the Everest North Col, it marks the saddle between Everest and Changtse, a neighboring peak. Climbers use the North Col as an acclimatization point and a strategic campsite during their expedition, positioning themselves for further ascents to higher camps and eventually attempting the summit of the world's highest mountain.
The North Col formation, also known as the Everest North Col, is a geographical feature located on the northern side of Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world. It is part of the Northeast Ridge of Everest and serves as a pass or saddle between Everest and Changtse, a satellite peak of Everest. The North Col is situated at an elevation of approximately 7,162 meters (23,497 feet) and is a critical point during mountaineering expeditions attempting to climb Everest from the Tibet (China) side.
The formation of the North Col is a result of glacial erosion and movement over millions of years. It is primarily composed of snow, ice, and rocky terrain, with crevasses and seracs scattered throughout the area. Climbers must negotiate the challenging and technical terrain of the North Col as they ascend and descend between the higher camps during their expedition. The North Col is an essential acclimatization point for climbers, providing a strategic campsite before they proceed to higher altitudes for their summit push.
When undertaking the Everest North Col Expedition from Tibet, it's essential to have the appropriate currencies with you to cover expenses during the journey. Here are the recommended currencies to carry:
US Dollars (USD):
Nepalese Rupees (NPR):
Chinese Yuan (CNY):
Exchange in Kathmandu and Lhasa:
Informal Currency Exchange:
The Everest North Col Expedition requires specialized clothing gear and climbing equipment to ensure the safety and comfort of climbers in the challenging and extreme conditions. Here's a comprehensive list of the essential clothing gear and climbing equipment needed for the expedition:
Carabiners and Quickdraws:
Ascenders and Descenders:
Yes, having a guide and porter during the Everest North Col Expedition is highly recommended and, in many cases, essential for a safe and successful climb. Here's a detailed explanation of why climbers should consider hiring a guide and porter:
Expertise and Experience:
Acclimatization and Safety:
Support and Logistics:
Communication and Translation:
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