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Everest North Col Expedition

Everest North Col Expedition

Everest North Col Expedition Overview

Everest North Col Expedition Trip Facts

Trip Price :
Location :
7000m Peak Climbing
Difficulty :
Max. Altitude :
39 days
Hotel Lodge, Trek House and Tented Camp
Best Season
March to May/September to November
Trip Type
hiking/ trekking/ climbing
Start from
Ends at
Min Group
Max Group
Walking Hours
6-7 hours
Breakfast Lunch and Dinner
Lodge/ trekhouse and tented camp
Luggage Restriction
Weight Restriction
Mountain Views
offers different mountain ranges
26000 US$25300
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The Everest North Col Expedition is a challenging and exhilarating mountaineering endeavor that involves scaling the northern route of Mount Everest, the world's highest peak. Starting from Tibet, climbers make their way through the treacherous and awe-inspiring landscape of the Himalayas, crossing high-altitude glaciers, icy crevasses, and facing extreme weather conditions. As they ascend towards the North Col, a rocky ridge at approximately 7,000 meters (23,000 feet) above sea level, they must acclimatize and overcome physical and mental obstacles. The final push to the summit demands exceptional mountaineering skills, endurance, and teamwork, as the climbers tackle the notorious "Death Zone" above 8,000 meters (26,000 feet), where the oxygen levels are critically low, and even the simplest tasks become exhausting. Nevertheless, reaching the summit of Everest from the North Col is an unparalleled achievement, rewarding climbers with breathtaking views and an indescribable sense of accomplishment that only a handful of people in the world can claim to have experienced.

Highlights of Everest North Col Expedition

  • North Col, is an ideal training peak for future Everest submitters.
  • Retracing the footsteps of George Mallory, a person who discovered Everest North Col in 1922. 
  • Drive to the beautiful landscape of Tibet and hike to Everest Base Camp via Chinese Base Camp. 
  • Climbing on the legendary Rongbuk Glacier. 
  • Crossing moraines, glaciers, and fresh streams rushing down to Lhasa. 
  • Climbing Lhakpa Ri together with North Col could also be an option. 
  • 100% success expedition guided by our experienced Sherpa climbing guides. 
  • Expert-designed itinerary with adequate acclimatisation and logistics. 

Everest North Col Expedition - Trip Overview

Everest North Col at 7000 metres in Tibet is a popular climbing destination for intermediate climbers. The spectacular location and awe-inspiring view from the summit are rewards of climbing Everest North Col.

It has been almost 100 years since the first expedition to Everest began in 1922. British expedition team led by George Mallory attempted summiting Everest but failed climbing past North Col. He and his climbing friend, Irvin, were the first to reach the North Col. Other climbers on higher camps from the same expedition state that Irvin and Gorge reached the summit, but never made back, leaving the first Everest summit a controversy. If it is true, the hailed Tenzing and Hillary will be the second Everest summiteer. 

The Chinese climbing community believes that the first successful ascent to Everest North Col was on the 25th of May in 1960. But, the lack of photo evidence disqualified this expedition as a success. The Chinese Government had issues with the Tibetan State between 1950 to 1980 that halted the North Col and Everest expedition. Hence, the first recorded successful summit of Everest North Col was in 1975. An expedition team from China submitted North Col with valid photo proof. 

Everest North Col is much colder than the South of Nepal side. The wind speed and steep ridges make the climbing arduous. Also, unlike the Nepali face, North Col on Tibet is not easily accessible by helicopter for rescue in emergencies. The over-conscious Chinese government limits helicopter flight over this terrain. 

The trip to Everest Base Camp in Tibet is in the heaven of the Himalayas. The inspiring Tibetan Plateau, Xegar at 4,300 metres, Thang La at 5,200 metres, and Nyalam are beautiful landscapes of Tibet. 

The distinctive shaped Lhakpa Ri, Rongbuk Glacier, and Magic Highway are en route to North Col. 
The rewarding North Col summit lets you explore humongous mountains adjacent to Everest. 8,188 metre's Cho Oyu, east Kangshung, East face of Lhotse, 7,543 metre's Changtse, 8,463 metre's Makalu, and Everest summit at 8,848 metres are visible from North Col. This expedition lets you comprehend the magnificent Everest summit route from the China side. You'll also get the chance to witness the rustic Tibetan lifestyle immersed with preserved cultures for ages. 

Everest North Col Expedition - Climbing Route

Everest North Col expedition begins from Everest Base Camp in Tibet at 5,200 metres. We'll climb to East Rongbuk Glacier, Mid Camp at 5,800 metres, via the legendary Magic Highway. Traversing Rongbuk Glacier might take time because it is widespread over 400 metres.

The climbers often term Mid Camp as Intermediate Camp or Japanese Camp. From Mid Camp at 5,800 metres, we'll climb to 6,350 metres tall Advanced Base Camp, which sits right below the North Col. We'll then climb to Everest Camp I at 7,000 metres, also known as North Col. 

Everest North Col Expedition - Itinerary Overview

Climbing guides and expedition managers from World Expedition Nepal will give a pre-expedition briefing a day before we set out for the North Col expedition. 

Nearly a month-long North Col expedition begins with a drive from Kathmandu to Rasuwagadhi. There's also an option of flying from Kathmandu to Lhasa. 

We'll drive to Gyirong from Rasuwagadhi and acclimatise here the next day. Hiking around hills and sightseeing help you acclimatise. 

The drive continues as we head to Tingri at 4,300 metres and acclimatise. Century-old Buddhist monasteries of Tingiri are worth visiting. 

We'll take another road trip to Chinese Base Camp at 5,200 metres. We'll acclimatise at Chinese Base Camp and hike to Middle Camp at 5,700 metres. It's a tiring hike of six hours. We'll ultimately hike to Advanced Base Camp at 6,485 metres and start a 14 days long climbing period.

Our logistic team will organise tented camps for our stay at different High Camps. We'll practice routine climbs, acclimatise, and rotational climbs.  We'll climb the North Col summit in the stable weather window and return to Chinese Base Camp the same day. We'll have a base camp cleaning session before leaving for Nylam.

Everest North Col Expedition - Foods and Accommodation

Everest North Col expedition has mixed accommodation. We'll be staying at tea houses till Tingri. Tea houses en route offer hygienic meals with varied food items on the menu. Overnight sleep will also be comfortable in these places. 

We'll start accommodating in tented camps from the Chinese base camp to High Camps and during the climbing period. Our efficient logistics will prepare meals for us. You'll stay in tents on a twin sharing basis. We'll guarantee that you'll get the best accommodation throughout this expedition.

Everest North Col Expedition - Climbing Difficulty

The PD graded climb of North Col is one of the easy 7,000 metres climbs. We'll be climbing only to Everest Camp I, which makes the North Col expedition not seriously a mountain climb. Climbing North Col gives you a substantial boost and training for summiting Everest later. The climbing difficulty is moderate, using fixed rope, crampons, and ice axes. The glaciers and snow slopes en route to Camp I are low-angled. Hence, the climb to North Col is straightforward. But, previous experience of some 6,000 metres climb is a must for the North Col expedition. 

Also, physical strength and fitness level have to be on top. Blood pressure and diabetes level in the body must be in good condition for this expedition. For rest, our climbing guides will support you during the entire North Col expedition and summit climb. 

Why World Expedition Nepal for Lhakpa Ri Expedition?

World Expedition Nepal focuses on and promotes peak climbing and expeditions in Nepal. We have been providing tour services since 2017 by registered and licensed under Nepal Government. In the Tibet expeditions, we'll make sure that you'll have complete joy alongside the adventure of high-altitude climbing. 

Our professional and experienced guides will ensure your utmost comfort and safety on Everest North Col climbing. We'll make this tour an unforgettable experience for you. Also, the health and safety of our clients is our primary motto. Our guides for these expeditions have mountain skills certification. They come with expertise in mountain medicine, first aid, and rescue operations.

We have fixed departures for the Everest North Col expedition for Autumn 2022 and Spring 2023. Book your trip with us and experience the thrill of climbing this 7,000 metres peak.


Everest North Col Expedition Itinerary

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Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal, offers a mix of modern amenities and traditional charm. As the gateway to the Himalayas, it serves as the starting point for many mountaineering and trekking adventures, including the Everest North Col Expedition. Take some time to appreciate the unique culture, history, and hospitality of this vibrant city before embarking on your journey to the majestic mountains.

Arrival in Kathmandu (1,345 meters / 4,413 feet) transfer to a hotel.

  • After a long flight to Kathmandu, you will arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, the only international airport in Nepal.
  • As you disembark the aircraft and enter the terminal building, you'll need to go through immigration and customs procedures. Depending on your nationality, you might need a visa to enter Nepal, which you can either obtain on arrival or beforehand from the Nepalese embassy or consulate in your home country.
  • Once you clear immigration and collect your luggage, you'll proceed to the exit where you'll be welcomed by a representative from the trekking or expedition company you've chosen or a driver from the hotel you've booked. They will be holding a signboard with your name or the The World Expedition Nepal's logo for easy identification.
  • The World Expedition Nepal's representative or driver will assist you with your luggage and lead you to the vehicle waiting outside the airport. The drive from Tribhuvan International Airport to the city center where most hotels are located will take around 20-30 minutes, depending on the traffic.
  • During the drive, you'll have a glimpse of the bustling streets of Kathmandu, with the colorful shops, traditional buildings, and lively atmosphere characteristic of the city.
  • Upon reaching your hotel, the staff will help you with the check-in process. They will provide you with the room key and any necessary information about the hotel's facilities and services.
  • After settling into your room, take some time to relax and freshen up after the journey. You might want to rest, as the time zone difference and the long flight can be tiring.
  • Later in the day or evening, you can venture out to explore the nearby area around your hotel, visit local markets, or sample some delicious Nepali cuisine at a nearby restaurant.
  • If you have any questions or need assistance with planning your upcoming Everest North Col Expedition, you can consult with your expedition team or trekking company's representatives who will be happy to address your queries and provide you with further details about the expedition itinerary and preparations.

Overnight stay in Kathmandu.


all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

Today, we will focus on these for the further expedition.

Permit Issue:

  • Before starting the Everest North Col Expedition, obtaining the necessary permits is crucial. The permits required may include a climbing permit issued by the Nepalese government and other permits related to the specific region and route you'll be taking.
  • Your expedition company or local agent will handle the permit process on your behalf. They will require your personal details, passport copy, and other relevant documents to apply for the permits.
  • The permit issuance process can take a few days to a couple of weeks, depending on the time of year and government processing times. It's essential to plan well in advance to avoid any delays.
  • Visa permit from Chinese ambassy.


  • Preparing for the Everest North Col Expedition is an extensive process that requires physical, mental, and logistical readiness.
  • Physical Training: Engage in a rigorous physical training program for several months leading up to the expedition. Cardiovascular fitness, strength training, and endurance exercises are essential to handle the demanding challenges of high-altitude mountaineering.
  • Altitude Acclimatization: Spend time acclimatizing at gradually increasing altitudes. This can include trekking in the Himalayas to prepare your body for the reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations.
  • Technical Skills: Acquire or improve essential mountaineering skills, including ice climbing, rope work, and crevasse rescue techniques. It's essential to be proficient in using mountaineering equipment such as crampons, ice axes, and harnesses.
  • Mental Preparation: Mentally prepare yourself for the physical and psychological challenges that come with climbing Everest. Positive attitude, determination, and resilience are vital to overcome difficulties and keep moving forward.

Last Minute Shopping:

  • Before departing for the Everest North Col Expedition, you may need to do some last-minute shopping to ensure you have all the necessary gear and equipment.
  • Clothing: Check that you have proper base layers, insulated jackets, waterproof outer layers, gloves, hats, and other cold-weather clothing suitable for extreme conditions.
  • Footwear: Ensure you have high-quality mountaineering boots with crampon compatibility, as well as comfortable trekking shoes for lower elevations.
  • Equipment: Verify that you have all the necessary technical gear, including a harness, ice axe, crampons, helmet, and a sturdy backpack.
  • Personal Items: Don't forget essential personal items such as sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottles, and personal medications.
  • Nutrition: Consider packing some high-energy snacks and lightweight meals to supplement the food provided during the expedition.


  • Before commencing the Everest North Col Expedition, you will have a thorough briefing session with your expedition leader and team members.
  • The briefing will cover various aspects of the expedition, including the detailed itinerary, daily schedules, climbing strategies, safety protocols, and emergency procedures.
  • You'll receive information about the different camps and the expected challenges at each stage of the ascent.
  • The briefing will also allow you to clarify any remaining doubts or queries and to understand the roles and responsibilities of each team member during the climb.
  • Pay close attention during the briefing, as it will help ensure everyone is on the same page and well-prepared for the journey ahead. 

Overnight Stay in Kathmandu.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

The drive from Kathmandu to Zhangmu, the border town on the Nepal-Tibet border, is a scenic and adventurous journey. Here's an outline of the typical route and key points along the way:

Kathmandu to Kodari (Nepal side):

  • The journey starts from Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal.
  • We'll drive through the bustling streets of Kathmandu and pass through small towns and villages.
  • The road initially follows the Trishuli River and then turns towards the Bhotekoshi River as we head north.

Kodari to Nepal-Tibet Friendship Bridge:

  • Kodari is the last major town on the Nepal side of the border.
  • From Kodari, we'll drive to the Nepal-Tibet Friendship Bridge, which spans across the Bhotekoshi River, connecting Nepal and China (Tibet).

Nepal-Tibet Friendship Bridge to Zhangmu (China side):

  • After crossing the Friendship Bridge, we'll officially enter China (Tibet).
  • At the border checkpoint, we'll go through immigration and customs procedures for exiting Nepal and entering China.
  • After completing the formalities, the journey continues on the Chinese side of the border.
  • The road from the border to Zhangmu is steep and winding, taking us through beautiful landscapes and offering views of cascading waterfalls and lush green hillsides.


  • Zhangmu, also known as Khasa in Nepali, is a border town located at an elevation of approximately 2,300 meters (7,546 feet).
  • It serves as the gateway to Tibet from Nepal and is an essential trade and transit point between the two countries.
  • We'll find hotels, restaurants, and shops in Zhangmu to cater to the needs of travelers crossing the border.

 Overnight stay in Zhangmu.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

The drive from Zhangmu to Tingri is an adventurous and scenic journey through the rugged terrain of the Himalayas. Here's a general outline of the route and key points along the way:

Zhangmu to Lalung La Pass:

  • After leaving Zhangmu, the road starts to ascend quickly as it winds its way up the mountains.
  • As we gain elevation, we'll pass through dense forests and steep hillsides.
  • The drive will take us through several switchbacks as the road climbs higher.
  • we stop in the trek house to have neal and take some rest and further contiue our trip.

Lalung La Pass (5,050 meters / 16,568 feet):

  • Lalung La Pass is one of the high mountain passes along the route.
  • The pass offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
  • It's a great spot to take a short break and capture some breathtaking photos.

Descent to Nyalam:

  • After crossing the Lalung La Pass, the road descends steeply towards Nyalam.
  • Nyalam is a small town situated at an altitude of around 3,750 meters (12,303 feet).
  • We'll pass through picturesque landscapes and might catch glimpses of the majestic snow-capped peaks.

Nyalam to Tingri:

  • From Nyalam, the road continues its ascent as we head towards Tingri.
  • The landscape becomes more arid and rugged as we move further away from the lower elevations.
  • Tingri is a town located at an altitude of approximately 4,300 meters (14,108 feet) and serves as a base for mountaineers and trekkers exploring the Everest region.

The total drive from Zhangmu to Tingri typically takes around 6-7 hours, but the duration can vary depending on factors such as weather conditions, road conditions, and any necessary stops along the way.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

An acclimatization day in Tingri is a crucial part of preparing for high-altitude activities like the Everest North Col Expedition. Acclimatization allows our body to gradually adjust to the reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations, helping to minimize the risk of altitude-related illnesses. Here's how you might spend an acclimatization day in Tingri:

Rest and Relaxation:

  • The primary goal of the acclimatization day is to rest and give our body time to adapt to the higher altitude. Avoid strenuous activities that could strain our body.

Short Hike or Walk:

  • Consider taking a short and easy hike or walk around Tingri. This helps to stimulate blood flow, which aids acclimatization, without putting too much stress on our body.

Hydration and Nutrition:

  • Stay well-hydrated by drinking plenty of fluids, but avoid excessive caffeine and alcohol, as they can contribute to dehydration.
  • Consume nutritious meals to maintain our energy levels during the acclimatization process.

Explore the Surroundings:

  • Use the day to explore the surroundings of Tingri. The town is nestled in the Himalayas and offers breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks and stunning landscapes.

Breathing Exercises:

  • Practice deep breathing exercises to help our body adjust to the lower oxygen levels. This can be beneficial in the acclimatization process.

Take Altitude Medication (if prescribed):

  • If we have been prescribed altitude medication by a medical professional, make sure to take it as directed to aid acclimatization.

Monitor Your Health:

  • Pay close attention to how you feel during the acclimatization day. Be aware of any symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headaches, dizziness, nausea, or shortness of breath. Inform our expedition leader or medical personnel immediately if you experience severe symptoms.

Restful Sleep:

  • Get a good night's sleep during the acclimatization day to aid your body's adaptation process.

 Overnight stay in Tingri.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

The drive from Tingri to the Chinese Base Camp (also known as the Everest Base Camp on the north side) is an exciting and challenging journey, as we ascend to even higher altitudes. Here's an overview of what you might expect during this leg of the journey:

Departure from Tingri:

  • The drive starts from Tingri, the town where we spent our acclimatization day.
  • Before departing, double-check all the necessary equipment and supplies for the higher altitudes, as we'll be approaching the Everest Base Camp.

Scenic Route and Changing Landscape:

  • As we leave Tingri, the landscape gradually transforms into a more barren and mountainous terrain.
  • The road will take us through valleys, past rocky outcrops, and alongside massive glaciers that are characteristic of the Himalayan region.

Rugged and Windy Roads:

  • The road from Tingri to the Everest Base Camp is rugged, and the driving conditions can be challenging due to the mountainous terrain.
  • We may encounter winding roads, steep ascents, and sharp turns, which require skilled drivers familiar with the area.

Altitude and Acclimatization:

  • As we progress on the drive, the altitude will steadily increase, and we'll approach the base camp's elevation of approximately 5,200 meters (17,060 feet).
  • Continue to monitor our health and be mindful of any signs of altitude sickness. If you experience severe symptoms, notify our expedition leader immediately.

Arrival at Chinese Base Camp:

  • After several hours of driving, we will reach the Chinese Base Camp, which serves as the starting point for the Everest North Col Expedition.
  • The Chinese Base Camp is situated on the north side of Mount Everest, and it provides a picturesque setting surrounded by towering peaks and glaciers.

Setting Up Camp:

  • Upon arrival, the expedition team will set up the base camp with tents and facilities necessary for the expedition.
  • Each climber will be assigned their tent, and the camp will serve as the primary base for the upcoming ascent.

Rest and Acclimatization:

  • After setting up camp, take time to rest and continue acclimatizing to the high altitude.
  • Engage in light activities, such as short walks around the base camp, to aid our body's adjustment to the thin air.
  •  Overnight stay in Base Camp.
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Trek Lodge

Rest and acclimatization at the Chinese Base Camp is a crucial phase of the Everest North Col Expedition. This period allows climbers to further adapt to the high altitude and prepare their bodies for the challenges ahead. Here's how climbers typically spend their time during the rest and acclimatization phase at the base camp:

Rest and Recovery:

  • Upon arrival at the Chinese Base Camp,we will be fatigued from the long drive and the cumulative effects of the high altitude.
  • Rest is a top priority during this phase. We will spend time in their tents or communal areas, allowing their bodies to recover from the physical exertion and prepare for the climb ahead.

Acclimatization Hikes:

  • Acclimatization hikes are an essential part of the rest period. We will go on short hikes in the surrounding area to higher altitudes than the base camp.
  • The purpose of these hikes is to expose the body to increasing elevations, which helps stimulate the production of red blood cells and improves oxygen-carrying capacity.
  • We will gradually gain altitude, ascending to designated points and returning to the base camp for better acclimatization.

Briefings and Planning:

  • During the rest period, the expedition leader will conduct comprehensive briefings on the upcoming climb. This includes discussing the route, potential challenges, weather forecasts, and safety protocols.
  • We will also participate in equipment checks, ensuring that all gear is in proper condition and that everyone is adequately prepared for the ascent.

Hydration and Nutrition:

  • Staying well-hydrated and properly nourished is crucial at high altitudes. We will be encouraged to drink plenty of water and consume nutritious meals to maintain their strength and energy levels.

Monitoring Health:

  • Throughout the acclimatization phase, We will monitor their health closely. Team members will communicate any symptoms of altitude sickness or other health concerns to the expedition leader and medical personnel, if available.
  • Being vigilant about one's health is vital to catch any potential issues early and address them promptly.

Mental Preparation:

  • Rest and acclimatization days also provide an opportunity for climbers to mentally prepare themselves for the upcoming challenges.
  • They will visualize the climb, set goals, and cultivate a positive mindset, which is essential for maintaining focus and determination during the demanding ascent.

Team Bonding:

  • Building camaraderie and a strong team spirit is crucial for a successful expedition. Rest days at the base camp allow climbers to get to know each other better and foster a sense of unity within the team.

Overnight stay in Base Camp.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

The trek from the Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp is a significant step in the Everest North Col Expedition. This section involves traversing the Rongbuk Glacier, ascending to higher altitudes, and advancing closer to the more challenging terrain of the mountain. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this phase:

Departure from Chinese Base Camp:

  • The trek begins from the Chinese Base Camp, where we have spent time acclimatizing and preparing for the ascent.
  • The base camp is located at an elevation of approximately 5,200 meters (17,060 feet).

Entering the Rongbuk Glacier:

  • As we leave the base camp, we will enter the Rongbuk Glacier, one of the largest glaciers in the world.
  • The glacier's vast expanse of ice and crevasses can present both mesmerizing and challenging features during the journey.

Crossing the Rongbuk Glacier:

  • The route requires careful navigation through the glacier, as we must traverse over crevasses and ice formations.
  • Ropes and ladders may be used to safely cross certain sections, adding to the adventure and technical aspect of the trek.

Ascending to Middle Camp:

  • We will continue ascending higher into the mountains as we make our way towards Middle Camp.
  • The route involves steady uphill sections and requires endurance and proper pacing to manage the altitude gain effectively.

Scenic Views:

  • The trek offers stunning views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks, including the north face of Mount Everest, which looms ever closer.
  • The breathtaking vistas serve as a reminder of the remarkable journey that lies ahead.

Arriving at Middle Camp:

  • After several hours of trekking, we will arrive at Middle Camp, situated at an elevation of around 5,800 meters (19,029 feet).
  • Middle Camp is an essential rest stop and serves as an intermediate point before advancing to higher camps.

Preparations at Middle Camp:

  • At Middle Camp, we will rest, rehydrate, and have meals to replenish their energy for the next phase of the expedition.
  • We will also prepare equipment and gear for the ascent to higher camps, ensuring everything is in order.

Acclimatization Hikes:

  • During the stay at Middle Camp, climbers may undertake short acclimatization hikes to higher elevations before returning to the camp.
  • These hikes further aid in the acclimatization process and provide valuable preparation for ascending to even higher camps.

Weather Monitoring:

  • Weather conditions play a crucial role in mountaineering. Expedition leaders and team members will monitor weather forecasts to plan for the next stages of the climb.

Overnight say in Middle Camp.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Tented Camp

The trek from Middle Camp to Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC) marks a significant milestone in the Everest North Col Expedition, as climbers ascend to an even higher altitude and get closer to the challenging terrain of the mountain. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this phase:

Departure from Middle Camp:

  • The trek begins from Middle Camp, where we have spent time acclimatizing and preparing for the higher altitudes.
  • Middle Camp is located at an elevation of approximately 5,800 meters (19,029 feet).

Ascending through the Rongbuk Glacier:

  • We will continue ascending through the Rongbuk Glacier, which remains a dominant feature during this phase of the trek.
  • The glacier's terrain might require traversing over crevasses and navigating around ice formations.

Increasing Altitude:

  • The route from Middle Camp to ABC involves a significant gain in altitude, and we will feel the effects of reduced oxygen levels.
  • Proper pacing, hydration, and rest breaks are essential to manage the altitude gain and minimize the risk of altitude sickness.

Crossing the Glacier Moraine:

  • As we approach ABC, we will have to traverse the moraine, which is the rocky debris and boulders left behind by the glacier's retreat.
  • The terrain can be challenging to navigate, and we must take care to avoid twisting an ankle or encountering unstable rocks.

Arriving at Everest Advanced Base Camp:

  • After several hours of trekking, we will finally arrive at Everest Advanced Base Camp, situated at an elevation of around 6,400 meters (21,000 feet).
  • ABC serves as a primary base for the Everest North Col Expedition and provides a crucial staging area for the ascent to higher camps.

Settling into Advanced Base Camp:

  • We will set up their tents and camp at ABC, making it their home for an extended period during the expedition.
  • The campsite is carefully organized, with individual tents, communal areas, and facilities to accommodate the team's needs.

Rest and Acclimatization:

  • After arriving at ABC, we will spend several days resting and acclimatizing to the higher altitude.
  • The extended stay allows the body to adjust further, making it better prepared for the challenges ahead.

Planning and Preparation:

  • During the rest days at ABC, the expedition leader and we will finalize their plans for the ascent to higher camps.
  • We will review the route, assess weather conditions, and strategize for the upcoming stages of the expedition.

Ice Climbing Training (if necessary):

  • Depending on the climbing route and conditions, some climbers might receive additional training in ice climbing techniques at ABC.
  • This training is crucial for navigating more technical sections of the ascent.

Hydration and Nutrition:

  • Staying well-hydrated and maintaining proper nutrition remains essential during the stay at ABC.
  • Climbers will focus on eating nutritious meals and drinking plenty of fluids to sustain their energy levels.
  • Overnight stay in Everest Advanced Base Camp.
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

On this period , we prepared nad comtinue to climb nearer to the summit.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Tented Camp

The period of rest and final preparations is a crucial phase before attempting the summit push in the Everest North Col Expedition. During this time, climbers focus on maximizing their physical and mental readiness, fine-tuning their plans, and ensuring that all necessary equipment and logistics are in place. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this phase:

Rest and Recovery:

  • After arriving at Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC), climbers will prioritize rest and recovery.
  • The extended stay at ABC allows the body to acclimatize further and regain strength after the challenging trek to higher altitudes.

Hydration and Nutrition:

  • Staying well-hydrated and properly nourished remain essential during the rest period.
  • Climbers will continue to eat nutritious meals and drink plenty of fluids to maintain their energy levels and support their bodies for the upcoming summit push.

Monitoring Health:

  • Climbers and expedition leaders will closely monitor their health during the rest days at ABC.
  • Any signs of altitude sickness or other medical concerns will be addressed promptly to ensure that the team is in optimal condition for the climb.

Weather Assessment:

  • The expedition team will continue to monitor weather forecasts diligently.
  • Weather conditions play a critical role in mountaineering, especially during the summit push, so climbers will assess the weather window for the best opportunity to attempt the summit.

Final Gear Check:

  • Climbers will conduct a thorough final gear check to ensure that all equipment is in excellent condition.
  • This includes inspecting climbing gear, clothing, and personal items to ensure nothing is missing or malfunctioning.

Mental Preparation:

  • The rest period is an opportunity for climbers to mentally prepare themselves for the summit push.
  • Visualization exercises and discussions with the expedition leader can help foster a positive mindset and boost confidence for the challenging climb ahead.

Summit Push Strategy:

  • The expedition leader will review the summit push strategy with the team.
  • This includes discussing the specific route, potential hazards, fixed rope sections, and contingency plans in case of unexpected challenges.

Safety Briefing:

  • The team will have a safety briefing, reiterating safety protocols and emergency procedures during the summit push.
  • This ensures that everyone is well-informed and prepared to handle potential emergencies.

Communication and Teamwork:

  • Effective communication and teamwork are vital during the summit push.
  • Climbers will strengthen their team bonds and ensure that everyone is on the same page regarding roles and responsibilities during the ascent.

Rest for the Final Push:

  • In the days leading up to the summit push, climbers will get plenty of rest, allowing their bodies to recover fully and be at their best for the challenging climb.
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Tented Camp

The summit push is the final and most challenging phase of the Everest North Col Expedition. It involves the ascent from Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC) to the higher camps and ultimately to the summit of the North Col of Mount Everest. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this critical stage:

Departure from ABC:

  • The summit push begins with climbers departing from Everest Advanced Base Camp, usually in the early hours of the morning when weather conditions are most favorable.
  • The team members wear multiple layers of clothing to stay warm and protect themselves from the extreme cold at higher altitudes.

Ascending to Higher Camps:

  • Climbers ascend to higher camps in a series of carefully planned rotations, depending on the expedition's strategy and weather conditions.
  • The typical higher camps include Camp 1 (approximately 7,800 meters / 25,590 feet) and Camp 2 (approximately 8,300 meters / 27,230 feet).

Fixed Rope Sections:

  • Throughout the ascent, there are sections where fixed ropes are used to help climbers navigate difficult and technical terrain.
  • Climbers attach themselves to the fixed ropes with harnesses and ascenders, providing additional safety and assistance during challenging sections.

The "Death Zone":

  • Beyond Camp 3, climbers enter what is known as the "Death Zone," where the altitude is above 8,000 meters (26,000 feet).
  • In the Death Zone, oxygen levels are critically low, and the body's ability to function is severely compromised.
  • Climbers must move carefully, taking calculated steps and conserving energy.

Summit Bid:

  • The final summit bid typically begins from the highest established camp (usually Camp 3 or Camp 4, depending on the expedition's plan).
  • Climbers start their final ascent to the summit in the dark, aiming to reach the top in the early morning hours to avoid afternoon storms and high winds.

Mental and Physical Challenges:

  • Climbing in the Death Zone is an immense mental and physical challenge. The body is under extreme stress, and even simple tasks become arduous.
  • Climbers must battle fatigue, cold, and altitude-related symptoms while maintaining focus and determination.

Reaching the Summit:

  • Upon reaching the summit of the North Col (approximately 7,162 meters / 23,497 feet), climbers experience an overwhelming sense of accomplishment and awe.
  • They are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and landscapes.

Celebration and Photos:

  • Climbers celebrate their achievement briefly but must not linger long due to the challenging conditions.
  • Summit photos are taken as souvenirs of the extraordinary accomplishment.

Descending Safely:

  • After spending a short time at the summit, climbers begin their descent, knowing that the journey is only halfway complete.
  • The descent can be as challenging as the ascent due to fatigue and the physical toll of the climb.

Return to ABC:

  • Climbers aim to return to Everest Advanced Base Camp, where they can rest and recover after their successful summit push.
  • The return to ABC is a time of reflection and celebration of the team's achievements.

 Overnight stay in Base Camp.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Tented Camp

This day is kept as a contingency day to account for any unforeseen circumstances such as inclement weather, difficult climbing conditions, or personal factors that may have affected the summit attempt on the previous day.

However, if the summit was not possible on the previous day due to unfavorable conditions, this contingency day allows for another attempt to reach the summit.

In case the contingency day is not needed for the summit attempt, it can also be used as an extra acclimatization day or for adjusting the itinerary as required.

Overnight: Tented Camp at Everest Advanced Base Camp.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

An early morning drive to Gyirong is a continuation of the journey after completing the Everest North Col Expedition and descending from the higher altitudes. The drive to Gyirong allows climbers to return to lower elevations and gradually transition back to more comfortable conditions. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this leg of the journey:

Departure from Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC):

  • After successfully completing the summit push and descending to lower camps, climbers will depart from Everest Advanced Base Camp.
  • The departure is likely to be early in the morning, allowing the team to make progress before the heat of the day.

Descent from Higher Camps:

  • Climbers will continue their descent from the higher camps, including Camp 3 and Camp 2, following the established route.
  • The descent allows climbers to gradually decrease their exposure to high altitudes, reducing the risk of altitude-related illnesses.

Return to Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC):

  • After completing the descent, climbers will reach Everest Advanced Base Camp once again.
  • At ABC, they may take a short rest and have a meal before continuing their journey to Gyirong.

Drive to Gyirong:

  • The drive from Everest Advanced Base Camp to Gyirong will take several hours, covering a distance of approximately 260 kilometers (162 miles).
  • The route will take climbers through picturesque landscapes, including valleys, rivers, and mountain passes.

Transition to Lower Elevations:

  • As climbers drive to Gyirong, they will notice the gradual change in altitude and climate.
  • The air will become thicker and more oxygen-rich as they descend to lower elevations, making breathing easier and reducing the effects of altitude.

Arrival in Gyirong:

  • After several hours of driving, climbers will arrive in Gyirong, a town situated at a much lower elevation compared to the base camp and higher camps.
  • Gyirong is located at an elevation of around 2,700 meters (8,858 feet), providing a welcome change from the thin air of the high-altitude regions.

Check-in at the Hotel:

  • Upon arrival in Gyirong, climbers will check into a hotel where they can rest and recuperate in more comfortable accommodations.
  • The hotel in Gyirong will offer amenities such as proper beds, hot showers, and a chance to relax after the challenging expedition.

Celebrations and Reflections:

  • The drive to Gyirong and the arrival at a lower elevation provide an opportunity for climbers to celebrate their successful expedition.
  • They will have a chance to reflect on their achievements, experiences, and memories from the Everest North Col Expedition.

Rest and Recovery:

  • The stay at the hotel in Gyirong allows climbers to rest and recover fully from the physical and mental demands of the expedition.
  • Adequate rest is essential to ensure a safe and smooth transition back to lower elevations and normal conditions.
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Trek Lodge

The early morning drive from Gyirong to Kathmandu is the final leg of the journey, completing the round-trip from the Everest North Col Expedition. After descending from the high altitudes and spending time in Gyirong, we will head back to Kathmandu to conclude their mountaineering adventure. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during this part of the journey:

Departure from Gyirong:

  • The drive begins early in the morning from Gyirong, with climbers bidding farewell to the beautiful landscapes and lower elevations of the region.
  • We  will start the drive with a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction after a successful expedition.

Crossing the Nepal-China Border:

  • As we depart from Gyirong, we will cross the Nepal-China border once again, which involves going through immigration and customs procedures.
  • At the border, we'll complete the necessary paperwork and formalities for exiting China and re-entering Nepal.

Descending from Higher Elevations:

  • The drive from Gyirong to Kathmandu involves a significant descent from the higher elevations of the Himalayas to the lower valleys and plains.
  • We will gradually return to more comfortable altitudes, allowing their bodies to adjust to the increasing oxygen levels.

Scenic Drive:

  • The drive from Gyirong to Kathmandu is a scenic journey, offering stunning views of the Himalayan landscapes, rivers, and charming Nepalese villages along the way.
  • The road winds through valleys and passes through picturesque regions, making it a memorable and enjoyable trip.

Arrival in Kathmandu:

  • After several hours of driving, we will finally arrive back in Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal.
  • Kathmandu provides a stark contrast to the remote mountainous regions, with its bustling streets, markets, and cultural attractions.

Check-in at the Hotel:

  • Upon arrival in Kathmandu, we will check into a hotel where they can freshen up and rest after the long journey.
  • The hotel in Kathmandu offers modern amenities and comforts, providing a well-deserved break for the expedition team.

Rest and Recovery:

  • The stay in Kathmandu allows climbers to rest and recover fully from the physical and mental demands of the expedition.
  • Adequate rest and relaxation are essential for a smooth transition back to normal life after the challenging climb.

Celebrations and Farewell:

  • In Kathmandu, climbers may have a celebration dinner to commemorate the successful completion of the Everest North Col Expedition.
  • We will have a chance to share stories and experiences from the climb and bid farewell to fellow team members and expedition staff.

Cultural Exploration (optional):

  • Depending on the length of stay in Kathmandu, climbers may have the opportunity to explore the city's cultural attractions, such as historic temples, markets, and local cuisine.
  • Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

In Kathmandu, the final day after the Everest North Col Expedition is a mix of emotions, including a sense of accomplishment, camaraderie, and a touch of nostalgia as climbers prepare to say goodbye to the friends they've made during the journey. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience on their last day in Kathmandu:

Final Packing and Organizing:

  • After a good night's rest in a comfortable Kathmandu hotel, you will begin their day by packing their belongings and organizing their gear.
  • You'll sort out the equipment used during the expedition, ensuring that everything is in order and ready for storage or transportation.

Celebratory Breakfast:

  • You may gather for a celebratory breakfast at the hotel or a nearby restaurant.
  • The breakfast offers an opportunity to recount the memories, experiences, and triumphs of the expedition while savoring the accomplishment of reaching the Everest North Col.

Celebration and Toasts:

  • During breakfast or at a dedicated celebration gathering, climbers and team members will raise toasts to mark the successful completion of the expedition.
  • The celebrations include heartfelt expressions of gratitude to the expedition leader, guides, Sherpas, and support staff who played crucial roles in the climb's success.

Group Photo and Memorabilia:

  • Before bidding farewell, you will take a group photo to capture the memories of their remarkable journey together.
  • You may also purchase souvenirs or memorabilia as mementos of the expedition and the friendships forged during the climb.

Saying Goodbye to New Friends:

  • Saying goodbye can be bittersweet, as climbers have formed strong bonds with their fellow team members during the expedition.
  • There may be hugs, handshakes, and warm words of encouragement as they bid farewell, knowing we have shared an extraordinary adventure.

Gratitude and Reflections:

  • Climbers will take time for personal reflections on their journey and the challenges they've overcome.
  • Gratitude for the experience, the support of their team, and the opportunity to explore the Himalayas will be at the forefront of their minds.

Exploring Kathmandu (Optional):

  • If time permits, climbers may spend the rest of the day exploring Kathmandu's cultural and historical attractions.
  • Visiting iconic sites like Swayambhunath Stupa, Boudhanath Stupa, or the ancient Durbar Square can provide insight into Nepal's rich heritage.

Farewell Dinner:

  • In the evening, the team may come together for a farewell dinner at a traditional Nepali restaurant.
  • The dinner is a final opportunity to share stories, laughter, and heartfelt sentiments as they conclude their journey as a united team.

Rest and Reflection:

  • After an eventful day, climbers will return to their hotel rooms for rest and reflection.
  • The day's experiences will linger in their minds as they prepare to depart for their respective homes.


all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

The departure from Nepal marks the end of the Everest North Col Expedition and the climbers' return to their home countries. Here's a detailed account of what climbers might experience during their departure from Nepal:

Final Preparations:

  • On the day of departure, climbers will make final preparations, ensuring they have packed all their belongings and necessary documents.
  • They will check out of the hotel in Kathmandu and settle any outstanding bills.

Farewell and Gratitude:

  • Before leaving, You may take a moment to bid farewell and express their gratitude to the hotel staff and the people they've met in Nepal.
  • The warmth and hospitality of the Nepali people often leave a lasting impression on visitors.

Airport Transfer:

  • You will be transported to Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu for their departure.
  • Depending on the expedition's arrangements, transportation may be provided by the expedition operator or hotel staff.

Immigration and Security:

  • At the airport, climbers will proceed through immigration and security checks.
  • You'll need to present their passports, visas, and other necessary travel documents for departure.

Final Goodbyes:

  • At the airport, you will say your final goodbyes to their expedition team members, guides, Sherpas, and support staff.
  • These farewells can be emotional, as climbers have shared a remarkable journey and formed strong bonds during the expedition.

Reflecting on the Journey:

  • While waiting for their flights, you may take time to reflect on the challenges, triumphs, and unforgettable experiences of their Everest North Col Expedition.
  • The memories of the breathtaking Himalayan landscapes, the camaraderie of the team, and the sense of accomplishment will stay with them forever.

Flight Departure:

  • You will board their flights, bidding Nepal farewell as you embark on their journey back to their home countries.
  • The flight from Kathmandu may include layovers in other cities before reaching their final destinations.



Service Includes on Cost

  • Arrival and departure transfer services to and from both domestic and international flights as per itinerary.
  • 3 Night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu including breakfast.
  • Trekking Lodge/teahouse and tented accommodation during trekking and climbing session
  • Experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period
  • Schedule flight tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu to all the climbing members, Sherpa guide.
  • 3 meals a day, breakfast, lunch, and dinner with tea/coffee available in the tea house/hotel/lodge during the trek.
  • Strong, helpful Sherpa porters with proper safety equipment and walking equipment, his salary, food, accommodation, and insurance (one porter for two people).
  • Trekking permit (Sagarmatha national park entry fee).
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Climbing permit of Nepal government to climb Island Peak.
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff.
  • Use of sleeping bag, down jacket, duffel bag and walking poles (if you don’t have your own, to be returned after trip completed).
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude staff.
  • Trekking and climbing map of Island peak. 
  • Our service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Oxygen meter to check your pulse and oxygen saturation and heart rate twice daily (Very useful to check Altitude Mountain Sickness(AMS) symptoms) which will ensure your health during the trek.

Service Excludes on Cost

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, health bars.
  • Items of personal nature - laundry expenses, tips.
  • Rescues, repatriation, medicines, medical tests, and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (easy to obtain the visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport – Kathmandu). $25 USD for 15-day visa.
  • Personal climbing gear.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Tips for the guide, porter, and driver (tipping is expected)

Everest North Col Expedition Altitude Profile

Everest North Col Expedition (FAQs)

The Everest North Col Expedition is considered a highly challenging and demanding mountaineering endeavor. It requires climbers to possess a high level of physical fitness, mental strength, technical climbing skills, and experience in high-altitude mountaineering. Here are some of the factors that contribute to the difficulty of the Everest North Col Expedition:

Extreme Altitude:

The Everest North Col reaches heights of approximately 7,162 meters (23,497 feet). Climbers enter the "Death Zone" (above 8,000 meters / 26,000 feet) during the summit push, where oxygen levels are critically low, making it extremely challenging for the body to function.

Cold and Harsh Conditions:

The expedition takes place in an extreme alpine environment with extremely cold temperatures, strong winds, and unpredictable weather conditions. Climbers must be well-prepared for harsh weather and be equipped with suitable gear.

Technical Climbing:

The route to the Everest North Col involves sections of technical climbing, including crossing crevasses, negotiating steep ice slopes, and navigating fixed ropes. Climbers need to have ice and snow climbing skills, as well as experience in using mountaineering equipment.

Lengthy Duration:

The Everest North Col Expedition typically lasts several weeks. The extended period at high altitudes and in challenging conditions puts a strain on climbers' endurance and stamina.


Acclimatization is crucial for success in high-altitude mountaineering. Climbers must spend several weeks at progressively higher elevations to allow their bodies to adapt to reduced oxygen levels. Acclimatization is both physically and mentally demanding.

Risk of Altitude Sickness:

At extreme altitudes, climbers are at risk of altitude-related illnesses such as acute mountain sickness (AMS), high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE), and high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). Recognizing and managing these conditions is essential for a safe expedition.

Remote Location:

The Everest North Col is located in a remote and rugged part of the Himalayas. Access to medical facilities and rescue services can be limited, adding to the expedition's difficulty.

Physical and Mental Challenges:

Climbers will face physical exhaustion, fatigue, and mental challenges throughout the expedition. Maintaining a positive mindset, mental fortitude, and determination are crucial for success.

Teamwork and Leadership:

Successful mountaineering expeditions rely on strong teamwork and effective leadership. The ability to work together, communicate, and support one another is essential for a safe and successful climb.

The cost of the Everest North Col Expedition can vary widely depending on several factors, including the expedition operator, the level of service and support provided, the duration of the expedition, the number of climbers in the group, and the logistics involved. The cost for a standard Everest North Col Expedition typically ranges from $20000to $25,000 USD per person.

The price of the expedition usually includes the following:

  • Expedition logistics and planning.
  • Climbing permits and fees.
  • Experienced climbing guides and Sherpa support.
  • Accommodations during the expedition (base camp and higher camps).
  • Food and meals during the expedition.
  • Climbing gear and equipment (except personal gear such as clothing and sleeping bags).
  • Oxygen supply and medical kit.
  • Transportation from Kathmandu to the Everest North Col base camp and back.
  • Liaison officer and other administrative support.

The best months for the Everest North Col Expedition are generally during the spring and autumn seasons when the weather and climbing conditions are most favorable. These months offer a higher chance of clear skies, stable weather, and lower risks of storms and extreme cold. The two primary climbing seasons for the Everest North Col Expedition are as follows:

Spring Season (April to May):

  • The spring season is the most popular time for mountaineering expeditions in the Everest region, including the North Col.
  • During this time, the weather tends to be more stable, with less precipitation and fewer storms.
  • The temperature starts to warm up, making climbing more comfortable, especially at lower altitudes.
  • The spring season offers better visibility, providing climbers with breathtaking views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks.

Autumn Season (September to October):

  • The autumn season is another favorable time for the Everest North Col Expedition.
  • Similar to the spring season, the autumn weather is generally stable, with clear skies and less rainfall.
  • The temperatures are moderate, and the days are typically sunny, creating pleasant climbing conditions.
  • The autumn season also attracts a significant number of climbers to the region.

For the Everest North Col Expedition, the required permit documents include:

Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) Permit:

  • The NMA permit is necessary for all mountaineering expeditions in Nepal, including the Everest North Col.
  • It is issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association and allows climbers to access the Nepalese side of the mountain.
  • The permit fee varies depending on the number of climbers in the team and the season.

Climbing Permit for the North Col:

  • In addition to the NMA permit, climbers need a specific climbing permit to access the Everest North Col and its higher camps.
  • The climbing permit is issued by the Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) since the North Col is located on the Tibet (China) side of the mountain.
  • The permit fee depends on the number of climbers and support staff in the team.

Liaison Officer (LO) Fee:

  • Climbing teams are required to have a government-appointed Liaison Officer (LO) from the Nepalese government who will accompany them during the expedition.
  • The LO fee covers the cost of the officer's services, coordination, and liaison with the local authorities.

Tibet Travel Permit (TTB) and Alien Travel Permit (ATP):

  • Since the North Col is situated in the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, climbers need the Tibet Travel Permit (TTB) to enter Tibet.
  • Additionally, the Alien Travel Permit (ATP) is required for travel to restricted areas in Tibet, including Everest North Col.

Mount Everest National Park Entry Permit:

  • If the expedition involves passing through or staying in the Sagarmatha National Park in Nepal (located on the approach to Everest), climbers and support staff need the Mount Everest National Park Entry Permit.

The North Col, also known as the "North Saddle," is a prominent and challenging pass located at the northern edge of Mount Everest's Northeast Ridge. It serves as a crucial gateway for climbers attempting the ascent of Everest from the Tibet (China) side. The term "col" refers to a low point or pass between two peaks, and in the case of the Everest North Col, it marks the saddle between Everest and Changtse, a neighboring peak. Climbers use the North Col as an acclimatization point and a strategic campsite during their expedition, positioning themselves for further ascents to higher camps and eventually attempting the summit of the world's highest mountain.

The North Col formation, also known as the Everest North Col, is a geographical feature located on the northern side of Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world. It is part of the Northeast Ridge of Everest and serves as a pass or saddle between Everest and Changtse, a satellite peak of Everest. The North Col is situated at an elevation of approximately 7,162 meters (23,497 feet) and is a critical point during mountaineering expeditions attempting to climb Everest from the Tibet (China) side.

The formation of the North Col is a result of glacial erosion and movement over millions of years. It is primarily composed of snow, ice, and rocky terrain, with crevasses and seracs scattered throughout the area. Climbers must negotiate the challenging and technical terrain of the North Col as they ascend and descend between the higher camps during their expedition. The North Col is an essential acclimatization point for climbers, providing a strategic campsite before they proceed to higher altitudes for their summit push.

When undertaking the Everest North Col Expedition from Tibet, it's essential to have the appropriate currencies with you to cover expenses during the journey. Here are the recommended currencies to carry:

US Dollars (USD):

  • USD is widely accepted in Nepal and Tibet for various expenses, including visa fees, permits, hotel accommodations in Kathmandu, and some purchases.
  • It's advisable to carry a sufficient amount of USD in small denominations for ease of transactions.

Nepalese Rupees (NPR):

  • While the expedition starts from Tibet, you may spend some time in Kathmandu, Nepal, for preparations and briefings before heading to the Tibet-Nepal border.
  • Having some Nepalese rupees can be useful for local purchases, meals, and transportation within Kathmandu.

Chinese Yuan (CNY):

  • As the Everest North Col Expedition is on the Tibet (China) side, you'll need Chinese Yuan for expenses in Tibet, such as accommodations, meals, and purchases during the drive to the base camp and while in Tibet.

Exchange in Kathmandu and Lhasa:

  • Before starting the expedition, it's recommended to exchange your USD or other major currencies to both NPR and CNY.
  • In Kathmandu, there are numerous currency exchange offices and banks where you can convert USD to NPR. In Lhasa (Tibet), you'll find similar facilities to exchange your USD to CNY.

Limited ATMs:

  • While there are ATMs available in Kathmandu and Lhasa, they may not be reliable or accessible during the entire expedition.
  • It's advisable to carry enough cash in USD, NPR, and CNY to cover your expenses throughout the journey.

Informal Currency Exchange:

  • In remote areas, especially in Tibet, informal currency exchange facilities may be available, but it's essential to exercise caution when using them to avoid potential scams or unfavorable exchange rates.

Additional Information

The Everest North Col Expedition requires specialized clothing gear and climbing equipment to ensure the safety and comfort of climbers in the challenging and extreme conditions. Here's a comprehensive list of the essential clothing gear and climbing equipment needed for the expedition:

Clothing Gear:

Base Layers:

  • Moisture-wicking and insulating base layers (tops and bottoms) to manage sweat and regulate body temperature.

Insulating Layers:

  • Fleece or down jackets and pants to provide warmth during colder conditions at higher altitudes.

Outer Shell:

  • Waterproof and windproof jacket with a hood to protect against harsh weather conditions.

Insulated Parka:

  • A heavy-duty insulated parka for added warmth during the summit push and in the "Death Zone."

Climbing Pants:

  • Durable and weather-resistant climbing pants suitable for technical climbing.

Climbing Gloves:

  • Warm and dexterous gloves for protection against cold and wind while climbing.


  • Large insulated mittens for extreme cold and high-altitude conditions.


  • Warm beanie or balaclava for covering the head, neck, and face.
  • Sunglasses with UV protection and glacier goggles to shield eyes from snow glare and harmful rays.


  • Sturdy and insulated mountaineering boots suitable for crampons.
  • Gaiters to keep snow out of boots.


  • Thick, warm, and moisture-wicking socks to keep feet dry and comfortable.

Climbing Equipment:

Climbing Helmet:

  • A durable and well-fitting climbing helmet for head protection.

Climbing Harness:

  • A comfortable and adjustable climbing harness for safety during roped climbing.


  • Mountaineering crampons that fit securely to boots for traction on ice and snow.

Ice Axe:

  • A technical ice axe for self-arrest and for use in technical climbing.

Trekking Poles:

  • Lightweight trekking poles for added stability and support during the expedition.

Carabiners and Quickdraws:

  • Various carabiners and quickdraws for attaching equipment and securing ropes.

Ascenders and Descenders:

  • Ascenders for ascending ropes and descenders for rappelling.


  • Dynamic climbing rope for technical sections and safety.

Climbing Protection:

  • Nuts, cams, and other climbing protection devices for anchoring and protection during technical climbs.

Climbing Backpack:

  • A sturdy and comfortable climbing backpack to carry gear and supplies during climbs.

Sleeping Bag:

  • A high-quality and warm sleeping bag suitable for extreme temperatures.

Camping Equipment:

  • Lightweight and compact camping gear for stays at base camp and higher camps.

Yes, having a guide and porter during the Everest North Col Expedition is highly recommended and, in many cases, essential for a safe and successful climb. Here's a detailed explanation of why climbers should consider hiring a guide and porter:

Expertise and Experience:

  • Mountaineering guides are highly experienced and trained in leading expeditions in high-altitude and technical terrain. They have extensive knowledge of the route, weather patterns, and potential hazards, making them invaluable for decision-making during the climb.
  • A guide's experience helps climbers navigate challenging sections, assess risks, and ensure the safety of the entire team.

Acclimatization and Safety:

  • Acclimatization is crucial for high-altitude mountaineering, as it allows the body to adjust gradually to reduced oxygen levels.
  • Guides are skilled at managing acclimatization schedules and ensuring that climbers ascend at a safe and sustainable pace, reducing the risk of altitude-related illnesses.

Support and Logistics:

  • Guides take care of the expedition logistics, such as arranging permits, coordinating transportation, and organizing accommodations and meals at base camp and higher camps.
  • They manage the expedition schedule and make necessary adjustments based on weather conditions and the team's physical condition.

Climbing Support:

  • Guides assist climbers with technical climbing skills, such as using crampons, ice axes, and ropes, especially during challenging sections of the route.
  • They provide guidance on climbing techniques, safety measures, and roped travel.

Communication and Translation:

  • In the Everest region, language barriers can be a challenge. Guides often serve as translators, facilitating communication with local staff and authorities.
  • They also act as liaisons with local communities, promoting cultural understanding and respect.

Safety Backup:

  • In case of emergencies or injuries, guides are trained in first aid and high-altitude rescue techniques.
  • They can organize and coordinate rescue operations, including evacuations if needed.

Porter Support:

  • Porters are crucial for transporting heavy gear, equipment, and supplies between base camp and higher camps.
  • Hiring porters allows climbers to focus on the climb and conserve their energy for technical sections.
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