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Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition Overview

Ama Dablam Expedition Trip Facts

Trip Price :


Location :

8000m Peak Climbing

Difficulty :


Max. Altitude :



30 days


Hotel/ Lodge/ Trek House/ Tented Camp



Best Season

March to May/September to November


On flight

Trip Type

Hiking/ Trekking/ Climbing

Start from


Ends at


Min Group


Max Group


Walking Hours

6-7 hours


Breakfast Lunch and Dinner



Luggage Restriction


Weight Restriction

20 kg

Mountain Views

Ama Dablam offers breathtaking backdrop of other towering Himalayan peaks, creating a picturesque and awe-inspiring view.
4800 US$4500
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An Ama Dablam expedition is a highly sought-after and challenging endeavor, situated in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Climbers must possess previous mountaineering experience and physical fitness to tackle the technically demanding ascent of the 6,812-meter-high peak. Typically lasting 4 to 6 weeks, the expedition involves setting up base camp at around 4,600 meters and establishing higher camps up to 6,300 meters. The summit day presents a daunting task of navigating steep rock and ice faces to reach the pyramid-shaped summit. With the aid of experienced guides and Sherpas, climbers can relish the breathtaking views of the Himalayas and a profound sense of accomplishment upon conquering Ama Dablam.

The visually appealing, distantly recognizable, and most beloved by climbers, Ama Dablam, at 6,812 metres, is a jewel of the Everest region. Ama Dablam's expedition, an expedition to a peak of 6,000 metres, is often considered technically arduous, and to climb to the summit is rewarding. It's a significantly technical climb that even mountaineers with previous climbing experience struggle to scale the summit.

The name, Ama Dablam, translates to a Mother Jewel. On the dot, Ama means mother, and Dablam means the pious box of ornament put on by Sherpa women. The striking SouthWest face of Ama Dablam holds a glacier that mimics the figure of Dablam. 

First Successful Ama Dablam Expedition

The expedition team of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1960 was the first successful Ama Dablam expedition. The four members, Barry Bishop from the USA, Mike Ward and Wally Romanes from New Zealand, and Mike Ward from the UK, successfully reached the summit on the 13th of March in 1961.

The setting of Ama Dablam is in the heart of Khumbu. Not only for Ama Dablam expedition members but also for Everest base camp trekkers who adore the utter elegance of this peak. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Makalu are visible from its base camp. The summit of Ama Dablam is a viewpoint for viewing the world's four highest 8,000ers, Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, and Cho Oyu. 

Technical difficulties of Ama Dablam Expedition

Those who make it to the top of Ama Dablam hail the SouthWest summit ridge ascent as the most appealing summit climbs in the Himalayas. Unlike other 6,000 metres mountains, Ama Dablam is a seriously arduous mountain for climbers. Ama Dablam's expedition is not for aspiring mountaineers because even climbers with some 7,000 metres of peak climbing experience struggle while climbing it. With endurance and strength, technical expertise in climbing is equally necessary for it. 

Ama Dablam is nominal avalanche-prone, but the steeper rocks, blue ice ridges, and walls make the climb arduous. The climber's favourite route to the summit, the SouthWest route, is supported by fixed rope lines. The sufficient ice and rock climbing skills come in handy at these climbs. The vertical wall, also called Yellow Tower, below 5,950 metres, Camp II, is the trickiest section of the entire Ama Dablam expedition climb. 

Acclimatisation throughout Ama Dablam Expedition

Since the climbing Ama Dablam expedition only calls the experienced climbers, they'll participate in two acclimatisation rotations and a final summit push. 

The first acclimatisation rotation begins from Base Camp at 4,600 metres to Camp I at 5,600 metres. With an overnight stay at Camp I, we'll hike down to the Ama Dablam base camp the next day. 

The second acclimatisation rotation takes climbers to Camp II at 5,900 metres with further push to 6,000 metres. The acclimatisation rotation lasts three days and returns to the base camp. 

In a perfect weather window, we'll prepare the summit push of the Ama Dablam expedition. We'll climb to Camp I on the first day. From Camp I, we'll reach Camp II and the Ama Dablam summit on the third day. We'll climb down to Camp II on the summit day. We'll rest overnight at Camp Ii before leaving for the Base Camp. 

Ama Dablam Expedition Autumn 2023 /2024 climbing strategy

Ama Dablam Advanced Base Camp at 4,750 metres to Camp I at 5,700 metres

The appealing glimpses of landscapes around Ama Dablam base camp are heavenly. A stream from the mountain zigzags via the meadows of the Base Camp. Mt. Tawoche and the valley below it look spectacular. 

We'll start our climb to Camp I via the grass-filled moraine ridges mostly covered in ice. The plateau at 5,150 metres, en route to Advanced Base Camp, is an ideal spot for viewing Mingbo La Pass, at 5, 815 metres. The climb becomes steeper as we ascend via the north face and reach boulder terrain. The Advanced base camp of Ama Dablam expeditions is usually placed right below this boulder terrain. 

The deep crevices and ridges to Camp I are arduous. To climb further to Climb I, you'll have to use fixed ropes from the end of the boulder face. Camp I will be over west of the boulder terrain at 5,700 metres. The platform supports at most five tented camps overnight. 

Camp I to Camp II at 5,900 metres

The route to Camp II becomes more arduous as you encounter exposed ridges and ample rock fingers. The thin ridges and raised cervices count require the use of fixed ropes. 

The yellow tower, a 15-metre steep climb, is the most arduous of the entire Ama Dablam expedition. But, our Sherpa will make arrangements for fixed ropes. The exposed Camp Ii at 5,900 metres has limited space for tented camps. 

Camp II to Camp III, at 6,300 metres

The route to Camp III is cosmopolitan of icy rocks covered in snow. We'll drop down to a snowy ridge from the red rocks and traverse a ravine linking the Lower rock wall and Grey tower. You may have to tribalize the groundless snowy couloir, till the famous Mushroom Ridge, at 6,300 metres. 

We'll set up our tents on the east face of the Mushroom Ridge. 

Ama Dablam Expedition: Summit Push

Ama Dablam summit push depends on the weather window and the snow conditions. The east route of the climb gets covered in snow and ice. The summit route goes around the hanging glacier on the west face. Crossing icefields, a few small snow fields, exposed ridges, and the snow rib of a 60-degree slope take us to the heavenly summit of Ama Dablam. 

Every mountain you can name in the Everest region stands tall in front. You'll catch glimpses of Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Baruntse. Further, the beautiful valleys like Dingboche and Chhukung, moraines, and glaciers appear alluring from the top. 

Looking for an Ama Dablam expedition in autumn 2023 / 2024?

We, World Expedition Nepal, employ IFMGA certified climbing guides and sherpa for the Cho Oyu expedition we run. Also, we design every expedition with precise logistics and acclimatisation. 

World Expedition Nepal is running Cho Oyu expedition for autumn 2023 and Spring 2024. After a long Covid pandemic, climbers from different countries are making their inquiries about expeditions in Nepal. So, we are receiving inquiries for trekking, peak climbings, and mountain expeditions. We are overwhelmed with the inquiries we are receiving at this time. Also, most climbers who make inquiries with us are reserving their seats for climbing Cho Oyu in Autumn 2023 and for Spring 2024. 

We operate every expedition with a fixed number of clients. Thus, we encourage you to reserve your seat before it fills out. We are ready to take you to the adventurous Cho Oyu expedition for Autumn 2023 and Spring 2024. Are you ready?

Ama Dablam Expedition Itinerary Expand All Close All

Upon arriving in Kathmandu, you'll be welcomed at the Tribhuvan International Airport by a representative from your expedition operator. They will greet you and help with the immigration and customs formalities. After collecting your baggage, you'll be transferred to your hotel in Kathmandu.

The drive from the airport to the hotel will give you a glimpse of the vibrant city of Kathmandu, with its bustling streets, colorful markets, and ancient temples. Depending on the time of your arrival, you may have some free time to explore the local area or simply rest and recover from your journey.

Once you check-in at the hotel, you'll likely have a briefing session with the expedition team. They will provide you with important information about the upcoming Ama Dablam Expedition, the itinerary, and the equipment you'll need. This briefing will also be an opportunity to ask any questions and clarify any doubts you might have about the expedition.

During your stay in Kathmandu, you can take the opportunity to explore some of the city's cultural and historical sites, such as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kathmandu Durbar Square, Swayambhunath (also known as the Monkey Temple), Boudhanath Stupa, and Pashupatinath Temple.

You'll also need to make sure all your personal equipment and gear are in order. In case you are missing any climbing gear or equipment, you can purchase or rent them in Kathmandu. Your expedition operator will be able to assist you with any last-minute preparations and ensure you have everything you need for the adventure ahead.

Finally, take some time to relax and acclimatize to the altitude in Kathmandu before embarking on the trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp. Proper acclimatization is crucial for a successful and safe ascent to higher altitudes in the Himalayas.


On the second day of your Kathmandu visit, you will have a full day dedicated to exploring more cultural and historical sites in the valley. Here are some additional places you can visit:

  • Kathmandu Museum: Start your day by visiting the Kathmandu Museum, also known as the Kaiser Mahal. It houses a wide array of artifacts, sculptures, and historical objects that reflect Nepal's cultural heritage.

  • Thamel: After the museum visit, head to Thamel, a bustling neighborhood known for its vibrant atmosphere, shops, and restaurants. Thamel is a popular tourist hub where you can find handicrafts, souvenirs, trekking gear, and a variety of international and local cuisines.

  • Narayanhiti Palace Museum: This former royal palace has been converted into a museum and offers insights into Nepal's monarchy and history. It includes exhibits on royal life, ceremonies, and historical events.

  • Asan Tole and Indra Chowk: Explore the lively marketplaces of Asan Tole and Indra Chowk, where locals gather to buy and sell fresh produce, spices, textiles, and traditional items. The colorful atmosphere and the hustle-bustle of these areas provide a unique cultural experience.

  • Patan Museum: After lunch, head to Patan (Lalitpur) and visit the Patan Museum. Housed within the Patan Durbar Square complex, this museum showcases a remarkable collection of traditional art, religious artifacts, and historical objects.

  • Mahabouddha Temple: Visit this unique terracotta temple in Patan, adorned with thousands of small Buddha images on its exterior walls. It is a fine example of Newari architecture and craftsmanship.

  • Krishna Temple: While in Patan Durbar Square, don't miss the chance to explore the Krishna Temple, dedicated to Lord Krishna. The temple is known for its remarkable stone carvings and intricate details.

  • Bhaktapur: If time permits, you can also take a short drive to Bhaktapur, another ancient city in the Kathmandu Valley. Bhaktapur Durbar Square is a UNESCO World Heritage site and features well-preserved medieval architecture, similar to Patan Durbar Square.

In the evening, you can relax at a local café or restaurant in Kathmandu and reflect on the rich cultural experiences of the day. The vibrant energy and historical charm of the Kathmandu Valley will undoubtedly leave a lasting impression on your journey. Make sure to rest well and prepare for the upcoming trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp, which will be an adventure of a lifetime.

 Overnight stay in Kathmandu.


On Day 3 of your Ama Dablam Expedition, you will focus on completing all the necessary preparations and official paperwork before heading to Ama Dablam Base Camp. Here's how your day might unfold:

Permit Issue:

  • Begin the day by finalizing any pending paperwork and formalities related to climbing permits. Your expedition operator will handle the permit issuance process, but it's essential to stay informed about the progress.


  • Gather all your climbing gear and personal equipment required for the expedition. Double-check that everything is in good condition and meets the necessary standards for high-altitude mountaineering.

Last-Minute Shopping:

  • If there are any items missing or needed for the expedition, use this time to do some last-minute shopping. Kathmandu offers a variety of stores and shops where you can find trekking and climbing gear, as well as other essential items.

Team Briefing:

  • Attend a comprehensive team briefing conducted by your expedition leader. During the briefing, they will go over the final itinerary, the route to Ama Dablam Base Camp, and the upcoming schedule. Safety protocols, communication procedures, and emergency plans will also be discussed.

Meet the Climbing Sherpas:

  • If you haven't already, this is an excellent opportunity to meet the experienced Climbing Sherpas who will be guiding and supporting the team during the expedition. Building rapport with the Sherpas is crucial for teamwork and a successful climb.

Final Logistics:

  • Address any last-minute logistics, such as transportation arrangements, finalizing the load carried by the porters, and distributing team equipment.

Weather and Route Updates:

  • The expedition leader will provide updates on weather conditions and any changes to the climbing route or schedule based on recent information.

Physical and Mental Preparation:

  • Take some time for personal physical and mental preparation. Ensure you're well-rested, hydrated, and mentally focused for the challenges ahead.

Celebratory Dinner:

  • To boost team spirit and morale, consider having a celebratory dinner with the expedition team. This will also provide an opportunity to bond and get to know each other better.

Early Rest:

  • Get an early night's sleep to ensure you are well-rested and ready to start the trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp the next day.

Overnight stay in Kathmandu.


On the morning of Day 4, we'll start the exciting journey to Lukla, the gateway to the Everest region and the starting point of our Ama Dablam Expedition. Here's how our day might unfold:

Early Departure:

  • Depending on the weather conditions and the flight schedule, we'll have an early departure from our hotel in Kathmandu. Our expedition operator will arrange transportation to the domestic terminal of Tribhuvan International Airport.

Check-In and Boarding:

  • Arrive at the airport and check-in for our flight to Lukla. Be prepared for a small aircraft with limited seating capacity, as Lukla Airport is known for its short runway and challenging terrain.

Scenic Flight to Lukla:

  • Enjoy a spectacular and scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. The flight takes about 30-40 minutes, and it offers breathtaking views of the Himalayas, including Mt. Everest, as the plane navigates through the mountain valleys.

Arrival in Lukla:

  • Upon arrival in Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft), we'll be welcomed by our local trekking crew and porters. Lukla is a small mountain town with a vibrant atmosphere, surrounded by beautiful landscapes.

Begin the Trek:

  • After some time to rest and acclimatize to the altitude in Lukla, start the trek to Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft). The trail initially descends, offering beautiful views of the Dudh Koshi River and the surrounding green hills.

Tea Houses and Accommodation:

  • The trek from Lukla to Phakding takes around 3-4 hours. Upon reaching Phakding, settle into one of the local tea houses, where we'll spend the night. Tea houses are simple lodges that offer basic accommodation and meals, making them the standard accommodation option during trekking in the Everest region.

Rest and Acclimatization:

  • After the first day of trekking, take some time to rest and acclimatize to the altitude. Proper acclimatization is crucial for our body to adjust to the increasing elevation and reduce the risk of altitude-related illnesses.

Evening Activities:

  • Spend the evening relaxing at the tea house, interacting with fellow trekkers, and enjoying the serene atmosphere of the Himalayan region.

Overnight Stay in Lukla.

Breakfast Lunch Dinner

On Day 5 of our Ama Dablam Expedition, we'll continue our trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar, the bustling and vibrant trading hub of the Everest region. This is a crucial part of the trek, as it involves gaining significant altitude and crossing some suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River.

Here's how our day might unfold:

Early Start:

  • Start our day early in the morning after breakfast at the tea house in Phakding. Begin our trek towards Namche Bazaar.

Crossing Suspension Bridges:

  • The trail from Phakding leads us alongside the Dudh Koshi River and takes us through beautiful pine forests. We'll cross several suspension bridges, including the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge, which offers thrilling views of the river and the surrounding landscapes.

Monasteries and Mani Walls:

  • Along the way, we'll pass through small Sherpa villages, where we can observe local life and get a glimpse of the Sherpa culture. We'll also encounter Buddhist monasteries and colorful prayer flags, creating a spiritual ambiance.

Lunch Stop:

  • After a few hours of trekking, take a break at a local tea house for lunch. Enjoy some delicious Nepali and Sherpa cuisine to fuel ourself for the rest of the journey.

Steep Ascent to Namche:

  • As we approach Namche Bazaar, the trail becomes steeper with several uphill sections. This part of the trek demands more effort, but the breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks, including Thamserku and Kangtega, make it all worth it.

Arrival in Namche Bazaar:

  • After approximately 6-7 hours of trekking, we'll reach Namche Bazaar. This lively town is the main trading center of the Khumbu region and serves as the gateway to many famous trekking routes, including Everest Base Camp.

Rest and Acclimatization:

  • Spend the rest of the day resting and acclimatizing in Namche Bazaar. This is an essential acclimatization day to help our body adjust to the increased altitude. We can take short walks around the town or visit the local market and shops.


  • Namche Bazaar offers several interesting attractions, such as the Sherpa Cultural Museum, the Everest Photo Gallery, and the Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Center. Exploring these sites will give us valuable insights into the local culture and the natural environment.

Stunning Mountain Views:

  • On a clear day, we'll have impressive views of Everest (Sagarmatha) and other surrounding peaks from various vantage points in Namche Bazaar.


  • Spend the night at a tea house in Namche Bazaar, where we'll enjoy a warm and comfortable stay.
  • Overnight stay in Namche Bazaar.
Breakfast Lunch Dinner

On Day 6 of our Ama Dablam Expedition, we'll take a well-deserved rest day in Namche Bazaar. Rest days are essential during high-altitude treks and climbs as they allow our body to acclimatize properly to the increasing elevation. Namche Bazaar, situated at an altitude of 3,420 meters (11,286 feet), is an ideal place for acclimatization due to its relatively lower altitude compared to higher points on the trek.

Here's how we can make the most of our rest day at Namche Bazaar:

Acclimatization Hike:

  • To aid the acclimatization process, we can go on a short acclimatization hike to a higher point near Namche Bazaar. One popular destination is the Everest View Hotel, located at an altitude of around 3,880 meters (12,729 feet). The hike to the hotel offers stunning panoramic views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and other surrounding peaks.

Explore Namche Bazaar:

  • Take the opportunity to explore the colorful and vibrant town of Namche Bazaar. It has several shops, cafes, bakeries, and markets where we can find local handicrafts, souvenirs, and trekking gear.

Visit the Sherpa Cultural Museum:

  • Spend some time at the Sherpa Cultural Museum to learn more about the unique culture, history, and traditions of the Sherpa people. The museum provides valuable insights into the Sherpa way of life and their mountaineering heritage.

Relax and Rest:

  • Enjoy a relaxed day at Namche Bazaar. Use this time to rest, read, or interact with fellow trekkers and climbers. Adequate rest is crucial for our body to recover and prepare for the upcoming challenges of the trek and the Ama Dablam climb.

Visit the Everest Photo Gallery:

  • The Everest Photo Gallery in Namche Bazaar showcases stunning photographs of the Everest region, taken by both local and international photographers. It's an excellent opportunity to get inspired and immerse ourself in the beauty of the Himalayas.

Hydration and Nutrition:

  • Focus on staying well-hydrated and maintaining a balanced diet. Proper nutrition and hydration are crucial for our overall well-being and acclimatization.

Check Gear and Equipment:

  • Use this rest day to double-check our gear and equipment. Ensure that everything is in good condition and ready for the next leg of the trek and the climb.

Overnight stay in Namche Bazaar.

Breakfast Lunch Dinner

On Day 7 of our Ama Dablam Expedition, we'll continue our trek deeper into the Everest region as we make our way from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche. This part of the trek offers breathtaking views of the Himalayan peaks and takes us to the serene village of Tyangboche, famous for its beautiful monastery. Here's how our day might unfold:

Morning Departure:

  • Start our trek after breakfast at the tea house in Namche Bazaar. Ensure that we are well-rested and ready for another day of adventure.

Gradual Ascent:

  • The trail from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche involves both gradual ascents and descents. We'll pass through rhododendron forests, and as we gain altitude, the landscape changes, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains.

Views of Everest and Other Peaks:

  • As we approach Kyangjuma, we'll get our first glimpse of Mount Everest (Sagarmatha) and other peaks like Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Lhotse. These awe-inspiring views will keep us motivated throughout the trek.

Lunch Break:

  • Take a break at Kyangjuma or Phunki Thenga for lunch. Enjoy a delicious meal and recharge before continuing the trek.

Ascending to Tyangboche:

  • After lunch, the trail ascends steeply through a beautiful forest of rhododendron and pine trees. Cross the Dudh Koshi River via a suspension bridge and then climb up towards Tyangboche.

Tyangboche Monastery:

  • Arrive in Tyangboche, a picturesque village known for its famous Tyangboche Monastery. The monastery is one of the most important in the Everest region and offers stunning panoramic views of Everest, Ama Dablam, and other Himalayan peaks.

Evening at Tyangboche:

  • Spend the evening at the tea house in Tyangboche, enjoying the peaceful surroundings and the spiritual ambiance of the monastery.

Explore the Monastery:

  • If time permits, visit the Tyangboche Monastery and witness the mesmerizing Buddhist rituals and ceremonies. The monastery is not only a spiritual center but also an architectural marvel.

Sunset Views:

  • Tyangboche offers fantastic sunset views of the surrounding mountains. Be sure to have our camera ready to capture the magical moments as the setting sun bathes the peaks in golden hues.

Acclimatization and Rest:

  • Use this day to acclimatize further to the higher altitude of Tyangboche. Take it easy, stay hydrated, and get a good night's sleep to prepare for the next day's trek.

Overnight Stay in Tyangboche.

Breakfast Lunch Dinner

On Day 8 of our Ama Dablam Expedition, we'll leave Tyangboche behind and embark on the trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp. This part of the journey takes us even closer to the majestic Ama Dablam peak, and we'll be surrounded by stunning Himalayan landscapes. Here's how our day might unfold:

Early Start:

  • Begin our trek early in the morning after breakfast at the tea house in Tyangboche. The early start allows us to make the most of the day and helps avoid trekking during the hottest hours.

Ascend through Alpine Terrain:

  • The trail from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp involves a gradual ascent through alpine terrain. We'll walk amidst sparse vegetation and rocky terrain as we gain altitude.

Pangboche Village:

  • On the way, we'll pass through the charming village of Pangboche, which is known for its ancient monastery and traditional Sherpa houses. Take a short break to explore the village and soak in the local culture.


  • Continue trekking through Deboche, another quaint village with beautiful mountain vistas. The trail offers breathtaking views of Ama Dablam and other peaks.

Imja Khola River:

  • Cross the Imja Khola River via a suspension bridge, and then make a steady climb towards Ama Dablam Base Camp. The surrounding landscapes become increasingly rugged and dramatic as we gain altitude.

Base Camp Arrival:

  • After approximately 6-7 hours of trekking, we'll reach Ama Dablam Base Camp at an altitude of 4,600 meters (15,091 feet). Base Camp is situated beneath the impressive South Face of Ama Dablam, offering stunning views of the peak and its seracs.

Base Camp Set-Up:

  • Settle into the Base Camp area, where our expedition team will have already set up tents and prepared the campsite. Base Camp is a temporary home during the climbing period, and it provides a secure and comfortable environment for the team.

Acclimatization and Rest:

  • Rest and acclimatize at Base Camp. As we've gained significant altitude in a short time, it's crucial to take it easy and allow our body to adjust to the thin air.

Briefing and Training:

  • Our expedition leader and Climbing Sherpas will conduct a briefing and training session at Base Camp. They will review the climbing plan, the route, and safety procedures for the upcoming stages of the expedition.

Enjoy the Scenery:

  • Spend the evening enjoying the awe-inspiring scenery of Ama Dablam and the surrounding peaks. The peaceful and remote Base Camp location offers a unique opportunity to immerse ourself in the beauty of the Himalayas.

Overnight stay in Base Camp.


Base Camp Preparation for the Ama Dablam Expedition is a crucial phase that involves organizing gear, finalizing logistics, and acclimatizing to the high altitude. Base Camp serves as the starting point for the climb, and proper preparation is essential to ensure a safe and successful ascent.

Here's what Base Camp preparation may entail:

Gear Organization:

  • Double-check all climbing gear and personal equipment to ensure everything is in excellent condition and ready for the climb. This includes clothing, boots, harness, helmet, crampons, ice axes, ropes, and technical climbing gear.

Gear Staging:

  • Organize gear in a systematic manner within the tents or designated areas at Base Camp. Create separate sections for climbing gear, personal items, food supplies, and communal equipment.

Climbing Gear Training:

  • Review and practice using technical climbing gear and safety equipment. Our expedition leader and Climbing Sherpas may conduct training sessions on rope techniques, ice climbing, crevasse rescue, and other essential skills.


  • Spend several days acclimatizing at Base Camp to adapt to the higher altitude. This involves staying well-hydrated, taking short hikes to nearby viewpoints, and allowing your body to adjust to the reduced oxygen levels.

Base Camp Hygiene and Sanitation:

  • Establish proper hygiene practices at Base Camp to maintain a clean and sanitary environment. Use designated toilet facilities and adhere to "Leave No Trace" principles to protect the fragile mountain ecosystem.

Weather Monitoring:

  • Keep a close eye on weather conditions at Base Camp. Unfavorable weather can impact climbing plans, and staying informed about upcoming weather patterns is crucial for safety.

Communication System:

  • Set up reliable communication systems at Base Camp to stay in touch with the outside world and coordinate with the support team. Satellite phones or radios may be used for this purpose.

Daily Routine and Rest:

  • Establish a daily routine that includes rest, meals, training, and acclimatization activities. Adequate rest and recovery are essential for the body to prepare for the challenges of high-altitude climbing.

Team Bonding and Motivation:

  • Foster a strong team spirit and motivation among expedition members. Encouragement and support from team members play a vital role in boosting morale during the climb.

Expedition Strategy:

  • Review the expedition strategy with the expedition leader and Climbing Sherpas. Discuss the climbing route, proposed summit schedule, and contingency plans in case of unforeseen circumstances.

Emergency Response Plan:

  • Ensure everyone at Base Camp is familiar with the emergency response plan in case of accidents or medical emergencies. This includes evacuation procedures and communication protocols.

Mental and Psychological Preparation:

  • Mentally prepare for the challenges of the climb. Ama Dablam is a technically demanding peak, and having a positive and focused mindset is crucial for a successful ascent.

Overnight stay in Base Camp.

Breakfast Lunch dinner

Certainly! The climbing period of Ama Dablam, which spans from Day 10 to Day 24 of our expedition, is the most critical and challenging phase of the journey. It involves multiple stages of acclimatization, establishing higher camps, and making summit attempts.

Here's a detailed breakdown of how this period might unfold:

Day 10: Base Camp to Camp 1 (5,700m/18,700ft)

  • Begin the ascent towards Camp 1, also known as Advanced Base Camp (ABC). The route involves negotiating ice and rock sections. Upon reaching Camp 1, climbers will rest and acclimatize to the higher altitude.

Day 11: Acclimatization at Camp 1

  • Spend a rest day at Camp 1 for further acclimatization. Climbers may engage in short hikes around the camp to familiarize themselves with the terrain and surroundings.

Day 12: Return to Base Camp

  • Descend back to Base Camp for rest and recovery. The team will rest and prepare for the next phase of the ascent.

Day 13: Base Camp to Camp 1

  • Climbers make another ascent to Camp 1 for additional acclimatization. This rotation helps strengthen their bodies and prepare for higher altitudes.

Day 14: Return to Base Camp

  • Descend back to Base Camp for rest and recovery. This rotation further enhances the team's acclimatization.

Day 15: Base Camp to Camp 2 (6,400m/21,000ft)

  • Climbers begin the ascent to Camp 2, also known as the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) on Ama Dablam's Southwest Ridge. This camp provides a more comfortable setting for acclimatization and preparation for the summit push.

Day 16: Acclimatization at Camp 2

  • Rest day at Camp 2 for further acclimatization. Climbers may also review climbing techniques and route details.

Day 17: Return to Base Camp

  • Descend back to Base Camp for rest and recovery. The team will finalize preparations for the summit attempt.

Day 18: Rest and Preparation at Base Camp

  • Rest day at Base Camp to allow climbers to recover fully and mentally prepare for the summit push.

Day 19-20: Summit Push

  • Climbers leave Base Camp early in the morning for the summit push. The route involves negotiating challenging rock and ice sections, as well as some technical climbing. The team will aim to reach the summit and descend back to Camp 2.

Day 21-22: Contingency Day

  • An extra day is kept in the schedule to accommodate any unexpected delays due to weather or other factors.

Day 23-24: Descend to Base Camp

  • The team descends from Camp 2 to Base Camp, allowing time for rest and recovery after the summit attempt.

Overnight stay in Base Camp.

Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Departure from Base Camp:

  • The team wakes up early in the morning at Ama Dablam Base Camp. After breakfast and final packing, they bid farewell to the Base Camp team, including the support staff and Climbing Sherpas.

Descending through the Valley:

  • The descent begins as the team retraces the same trail used during the ascent. The route takes them through the rocky and glacial terrain, providing a different perspective of the landscape.

Crossing the Imja Khola River:

  • The team crosses the Imja Khola River again, navigating the suspension bridge that spans the rushing waters.

Passing through Pangboche and Deboche:

  • Continuing the descent, the team passes through the charming villages of Pangboche and Deboche. These traditional Sherpa villages offer a glimpse into the local culture and architecture.

Arrival in Tyangboche:

  • After a few hours of trekking, the team arrives at Tyangboche. The village is surrounded by towering peaks and offers stunning views of Ama Dablam.

Rest and Relaxation:

  • Upon reaching Tyangboche, the team settles into their tea house accommodations. They can take a well-deserved rest, have a hot meal, and enjoy the serene atmosphere of the village.

Exploring Tyangboche:

  • Tyangboche is famous for its beautiful monastery, the Tengboche Monastery. The team may visit the monastery to observe prayer ceremonies and experience the spiritual ambiance.

Overnight stay in Tyangboche.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Trek Lodge

Trekking from Tyangboche to Namche Bazaar is a scenic and enjoyable journey through the beautiful Everest region of Nepal. This segment of the trek takes you through picturesque landscapes, traditional Sherpa villages, and offers stunning views of the Himalayan peaks. Here's how your trek from Tyangboche to Namche Bazaar might unfold:

Departure from Tyangboche:

  • After breakfast in Tyangboche, you'll begin your trek towards Namche Bazaar. Make sure to start early in the morning to make the most of the day and avoid trekking during the hottest hours.

Descending to Phunki Thenga:

  • The trail starts with a descent through rhododendron and pine forests. We'll cross the Imja Khola River via a suspension bridge and then gradually ascend to the village of Phunki Thenga.

Lunch Break:

  • Take a break at Phunki Thenga, a small settlement with tea houses and lodges. Enjoy a hearty lunch to refuel for the rest of the trek.

Ascending to Tengboche:

  • After lunch, the trail ascends steadily through forests and open terrain. We'll pass by several mani walls and chortens as we make our way towards the famous Tengboche Monastery.

Tea Break at Debuche:

  • Continue the trek from Tengboche to Debuche, another small village with tea houses. Stop for a tea break and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere.

Journey to Namche Bazaar:

  • From Debuche, the trail gradually descends through lush forests, offering glimpses of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam along the way. The Dudh Koshi River accompanies us as we approach Namche Bazaar.

Arrival in Namche Bazaar:

  • After several hours of trekking, we'll reach Namche Bazaar, the bustling trading hub of the Everest region. The vibrant town welcomes trekkers and climbers with a range of lodges, shops, and bakeries.

Overnight stay in Namche Bazar.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Trek Lodge

The trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla marks the final leg of our journey in the Everest region. It's a picturesque route that allows us to revisit some of the places we passed through during the initial ascent. Here's how our trek back from Namche Bazaar to Lukla might unfold:

Departure from Namche Bazaar:

  • After breakfast in Namche Bazaar, bid farewell to this vibrant town and start our trek towards Lukla. The trek is mostly downhill, making it a relatively easier journey compared to the ascent.

Crossing Suspension Bridges:

  • As we leave Namche Bazaar, we'll cross several suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River and its tributaries. The views from the bridges are breathtaking, providing a different perspective of the river and the landscapes.

Passing through Phakding:

  • Continue trekking through the picturesque villages of Jorsalle and Phakding. Enjoy the serene surroundings and interact with the friendly locals along the way.

Lunch Break:

  • Stop for a lunch break at a tea house or lodge in Phakding. Take the opportunity to rest and refuel for the rest of the journey.

Crossing Monjo:

  • After lunch, the trail continues through Monjo, where we'll exit the Sagarmatha National Park. Our permits will be checked at the park exit point.

Last Stretch to Lukla:

  • The final stretch of the trek takes us through forests and small settlements. The anticipation of reaching Lukla, the gateway to the Everest region, adds excitement to the journey.

Arrival in Lukla:

  • After approximately 6-7 hours of trekking, we'll arrive in Lukla. Celebrate the successful completion of our Everest region adventure with our trekking companions.

Rest and Relaxation in Lukla:

  • Settle into our tea house or lodge in Lukla. Take some time to rest, relax, and relish the experiences and memories of your trek in the Himalayas.

Evening in Lukla:

  • In the evening, you can explore Lukla, which has a small market area and various shops catering to trekkers and climbers. Enjoy a meal and celebrate the completion of our trek.

Overnight stay in Lukla.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

Flying from Lukla to Kathmandu is the final leg of our journey back to the capital city after completing the trek in the Everest region. Here's what we can expect during the flight from Lukla to Kathmandu:

Early Morning Departure:

  • Flights from Lukla to Kathmandu typically operate early in the morning, as weather conditions are more favorable during these hours. The exact flight time may vary depending on the weather and airline schedules.

Check-in and Boarding:

  • We'll check in at Lukla Airport and go through the necessary security procedures. Lukla Airport is known for its unique short and uphill runway, making the takeoff and landing an adventurous experience.

Scenic Flight:

  • The flight from Lukla to Kathmandu offers stunning aerial views of the Himalayan peaks and lush landscapes. On a clear day, we can catch panoramic glimpses of Mount Everest and other majestic mountains.

Approximate Flight Duration:

  • The flight from Lukla to Kathmandu takes around 30 to 40 minutes, covering a distance of approximately 136 kilometers (84 miles).

Arrival in Kathmandu:

  • Upon landing at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, we'll be welcomed back to the bustling city. From the airport, we'll be transferred to our hotel in Kathmandu.

Rest and Relaxation:

  • After the exhilarating trek and flight, we'll have the opportunity to rest, freshen up, and relax at our hotel in Kathmandu.

Free Time in Kathmandu:

  • Depending on your flight schedule, you may have some free time in Kathmandu to explore the city further, shop for souvenirs, or enjoy a leisurely stroll around the Thamel area.

Celebration and Farewell:

  • In the evening, you can celebrate the successful completion of your trek with your trekking companions and expedition team members. It's a time to reflect on the journey, share stories and experiences, and express gratitude to the support staff and guides who made the expedition possible.

Overnight stay in Kathmandu.

all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

Having a free day in Kathmandu for sightseeing is a wonderful opportunity to explore the cultural, historical, and architectural treasures of Nepal's capital city. Kathmandu is rich in heritage and offers a variety of attractions that showcase its unique blend of ancient and modern influences. Here are some popular places and activities you can consider during your free day in Kathmandu:

Visit Durbar Squares:

  • Explore the three major Durbar Squares in Kathmandu Valley: Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Square, and Bhaktapur Durbar Square. These UNESCO World Heritage Sites feature ancient palaces, temples, and intricate wood and stone carvings that depict Nepal's architectural grandeur.

Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple):

  • Visit Swayambhunath, an ancient stupa perched atop a hill. It is also known as the Monkey Temple due to the playful monkeys that inhabit the area. From the stupa, you can enjoy panoramic views of Kathmandu city.

Boudhanath Stupa:

  • Boudhanath Stupa is one of the largest stupas in Nepal and an important center of Tibetan Buddhism. This iconic structure, adorned with prayer flags and surrounded by monasteries, offers a spiritual and serene atmosphere.

Pashupatinath Temple:

  • Visit Pashupatinath, one of the holiest Hindu temples in Nepal. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is located along the Bagmati River and is an important pilgrimage site for Hindus.


  • Take a stroll through Thamel, Kathmandu's vibrant and bustling tourist district. Thamel is known for its numerous shops, restaurants, cafes, and street markets. It's an excellent place to buy souvenirs, handicrafts, and trekking gear.

Garden of Dreams:

  • Spend some peaceful moments at the Garden of Dreams, a beautifully landscaped garden located in the heart of Kathmandu. It provides a tranquil escape from the city's hustle and bustle.

Cultural Shows and Performances:

  • Enjoy traditional Nepali cultural shows that include dance, music, and theatrical performances. These shows offer insights into Nepal's diverse cultural heritage.

Local Cuisine:

  • Savor authentic Nepali cuisine at one of the many restaurants in Kathmandu. Don't miss trying momo (dumplings), dal bhat (rice with lentil soup), and various traditional Newari dishes.

Spa and Wellness:

  • Treat yourself to a relaxing spa session or a traditional Nepali massage to unwind and rejuvenate after your trek.
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 

Day 30 : Final Departure

Service Includes on Cost

  • Arrival and departure transfer services to and from both domestic and international flights as per itinerary.
  • 3 Night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu including breakfast.
  • Trekking Lodge/teahouse and tented accommodation during trekking and climbing session
  • Experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period
  • Schedule flight tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu to all the climbing members, Sherpa guide.
  • 3 meals a day, breakfast, lunch, and dinner with tea/coffee available in the tea house/hotel/lodge during the trek.
  • Strong, helpful Sherpa porters with proper safety equipment and walking equipment, his salary, food, accommodation, and insurance (one porter for two people).
  • Trekking permit (Sagarmatha national park entry fee).
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Climbing permit of Nepal government to climb Island Peak.
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff.
  • Use of sleeping bag, down jacket, duffel bag and walking poles (if you don’t have your own, to be returned after trip completed).
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude staff.
  • Trekking and climbing map of Island peak. 
  • Our service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Oxygen meter to check your pulse and oxygen saturation and heart rate twice daily (Very useful to check Altitude Mountain Sickness(AMS) symptoms) which will ensure your health during the trek.

Service Excludes on Cost

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, health bars.
  • Items of personal nature - laundry expenses, tips.
  • Rescues, repatriation, medicines, medical tests, and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (easy to obtain the visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport – Kathmandu). $25 USD for 15-day visa.
  • Personal climbing gear.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Tips for the guide, porter, and driver (tipping is expected)

Ama Dablam Expedition Altitude Profile

Scheduled Departures

Start Date
Trip Duration
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16 Days
USD 4500
16 Days
USD 4500
16 Days
USD 4500
16 Days
USD 4500
16 Days
USD 4500
Start Date
Trip Duration
Join Group
16 Days
USD 4500
16 Days
USD 4500
16 Days
USD 4500
16 Days
USD 4500
16 Days
USD 4500

Ama Dablam Expedition (FAQs)

The Ama Dablam Expedition is a challenging and technically demanding mountaineering endeavor. Climbers face several difficulties and obstacles throughout the expedition. Here are the main difficulties involved in the Ama Dablam Expedition in detail:

Technical Climbing:

Ama Dablam is a technically challenging peak, requiring climbers to have proficient mountaineering skills. The route involves various technical sections, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and traversing steep ridges.


Ama Dablam's summit stands at 6,812 meters (22,349 feet) above sea level. Climbers must acclimatize properly to the high altitude to reduce the risk of altitude-related illnesses such as altitude sickness, which can be life-threatening.

Extreme Weather:

The Everest region experiences rapidly changing weather conditions. Harsh winds, snowstorms, and extreme cold are common at high altitudes, which can impact climbing plans and pose serious risks to climbers' safety.

High Camps:

Establishing high camps at strategic points on the mountain is essential for a successful ascent. However, setting up and maintaining these camps at high altitudes can be physically demanding and challenging due to the extreme conditions.

Rockfall and Avalanche Hazards:

The steep terrain of Ama Dablam exposes climbers to potential rockfall and avalanche hazards. Climbers must be vigilant and choose safe routes to minimize the risk of accidents.

Technical Gendarmes:

Ama Dablam is known for its technical gendarmes, which are steep and narrow rocky towers on the ridge. Climbing these features requires precise technical skills and a calm approach.

Roped Team Climbing:

Climbers need to be proficient in roped team climbing techniques to navigate the technical sections safely. Roped teams must work together efficiently to ensure the safety of all members.

Limited Weather Windows:

The expedition's success largely depends on finding suitable weather windows for the summit push. These windows may be short, and climbers must be prepared to take advantage of them.

Equipment and Gear:

Carrying heavy equipment and gear for technical climbing and high-altitude conditions can be physically taxing, especially during the ascent to higher camps.

Expedition Duration:

The expedition typically lasts around 25 days, which includes acclimatization, climbing, and descent. Spending an extended period in challenging environments requires mental and physical endurance.

Rescue and Medical Facilities:

The remote nature of the Everest region means that access to rescue and medical facilities can be limited, especially at higher altitudes. Climbers must be self-sufficient and prepared for emergencies.

The cost of an Ama Dablam Expedition can vary widely depending on several factors, including the expedition's duration, level of services, the number of climbers in the group, the level of support provided, the expertise of the expedition leader, and the logistics involved. The cost of a fully guided Ama Dablam Expedition with a reputable and experienced expedition company can range from USD 25,000 to USD 40,000 per person.

Keep in mind that this cost typically includes various services and expenses, such as:

  • Climbing Permit: The cost of the climbing permit for Ama Dablam, which is a significant portion of the total expedition cost.

  • Expedition Support: Services provided by the expedition company, including experienced climbing Sherpas, guides, and support staff.

  • Food and Accommodation: Meals and lodging during the expedition, both in Kathmandu and during the trek to and from the mountain.

  • Logistics: Transportation between Kathmandu and Lukla, as well as cargo flights for expedition equipment and supplies.

  • Climbing Gear: Renting or providing specialized climbing equipment, such as ropes, harnesses, crampons, ice axes, and technical gear.

  • Medical and Rescue: Emergency medical and rescue arrangements, as well as medical supplies and equipment.

  • Permits and Fees: Other permits and fees required for trekking and mountaineering in the Everest region.

The best months for the Ama Dablam Expedition are typically during the two main climbing seasons in Nepal, which coincide with the most favorable weather and climbing conditions in the Everest region. The two main climbing seasons are:

Spring Season (March to May):

  • The spring season is considered the best time for Ama Dablam Expedition. The weather during this period is generally stable, with clear skies and mild temperatures at higher altitudes. The days are longer, providing ample daylight for climbing activities. The route is also relatively less hazardous due to reduced avalanche risk. The spring season is popular among climbers, so you may encounter more teams attempting the ascent.

Autumn Season (September to November):

  • The autumn season is another excellent time for the Ama Dablam Expedition. The weather is stable and dry, with clear visibility and favorable climbing conditions. The temperatures are comfortable, and the post-monsoon season brings fresh snow to the mountains, making the landscapes even more breathtaking. Like the spring season, the autumn season attracts a significant number of climbers, creating a vibrant mountaineering atmosphere.

The first ascent of Ama Dablam was made on March 13, 1961, by an expedition led by New Zealand climber Sir Edmund Hillary. The successful summit team included Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes. They approached the mountain from the southwest ridge, making their way through challenging technical sections and steep ice faces. Despite encountering strong winds and adverse weather conditions, the team persevered and reached the summit, marking the first ascent of this stunning peak in the Everest region of Nepal. The successful climb of Ama Dablam added to Sir Edmund Hillary's remarkable mountaineering legacy, following his historic first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953.

Yes, Ama Dablam is considered harder and more technically challenging to climb than Mount Everest in terms of technical difficulty and the nature of the climbing route. While Mount Everest is the highest peak in the world and demands high-altitude mountaineering skills and endurance, Ama Dablam presents unique challenges due to its steep and technical sections.

Ama Dablam's southwest ridge, which is the standard route for climbing, involves rock and ice climbing, steep snow slopes, and technical gendarmes. Climbers must navigate through narrow ridges, traverse exposed terrain, and tackle challenging technical sections, including icefalls and rockfaces. The mountain's complex terrain demands strong mountaineering skills and the ability to handle varying climbing techniques.

Mount Everest, on the other hand, is predominantly a high-altitude climb that requires endurance, stamina, and acclimatization. While it involves the challenges of extreme altitude and weather, the ascent is mostly a non-technical hike along established routes, such as the Southeast Ridge from Nepal and the Northeast Ridge from Tibet.

Both Ama Dablam and Mount Everest are significant mountaineering achievements, but climbers often consider Ama Dablam as a technically more demanding and challenging climb due to its technical difficulties and steep sections. Climbers attempting Ama Dablam require a higher level of technical expertise and specialized climbing skills, making it a coveted peak for experienced mountaineers looking for a technical challenge in the Everest region of Nepal.

Ama Dablam has a relatively lower death rate compared to some other high-altitude peaks in the Himalayas. However, like any mountain expedition, climbing Ama Dablam comes with inherent risks, and fatalities can occur due to various factors, including avalanches, falls, exposure to extreme weather conditions, altitude-related illnesses, and accidents during technical climbing sections. The exact death rate varies from year to year and is influenced by climbers' experience, weather conditions, route conditions, and the decisions made during the expedition. Climbers attempting Ama Dablam must have adequate mountaineering skills, be well-acclimatized, and make sound decisions to minimize risks and ensure a safe ascent and descent. Expedition companies prioritize safety measures and thorough preparation to mitigate the potential dangers involved in climbing Ama Dablam.

the alternative route for the Ama Dablam Expedition is the Northwest Ridge. While the Southwest Ridge is the standard and most popular route, the Northwest Ridge offers a less-traveled and more technically challenging option. This route involves starting the climb from the northern side of the mountain and involves climbing through steep ice and rock faces, as well as navigating seracs and crevasses. The Northwest Ridge requires advanced mountaineering skills, including proficiency in ice and mixed climbing techniques. Climbers attempting this route will experience a more remote and adventurous expedition with fewer crowds, but they must be prepared for additional technical difficulties and complexities in the ascent. However, it's important to note that the availability and feasibility of the Northwest Ridge as an alternative route may vary, and climbers should consult with experienced guides and expedition organizers for the most up-to-date information and guidance.

Certainly! Here are more details about altitude sickness and its management during the Ama Dablam Expedition:

Altitude Sickness (Acute Mountain Sickness - AMS):

  • Altitude sickness is a medical condition that can affect individuals ascending to high altitudes too quickly. As you climb higher, the air becomes thinner, and the oxygen levels decrease. This can lead to AMS, which may manifest with symptoms such as headache, dizziness, nausea, loss of appetite, fatigue, and difficulty sleeping.

Acclimatization Schedule:

  • A well-planned acclimatization schedule is crucial for the Ama Dablam Expedition. The itinerary should include gradual ascent and rest days at strategic points to allow climbers' bodies to adjust to the higher elevations. Typically, climbers spend a few days in Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,286ft) and other villages to acclimatize before reaching higher altitudes.

Climbing Route:

  • The standard route for Ama Dablam involves several camps at increasing altitudes. Climbers establish Base Camp at around 4,600 meters (15,091 feet) and progressively ascend to higher camps, including Camp 1 (5,700m/18,700ft), Camp 2 (5,900m/19,356ft), and Camp 3 (6,300m/20,669ft). The gradual progression to higher camps allows for better acclimatization.

Rest and Acclimatization Days:

  • During the expedition, climbers take rest and acclimatization days at Base Camp and higher camps. These rest days involve minimal physical activity to allow the body to adapt to the decreasing oxygen levels. Proper hydration, nutrition, and sleep are essential during these periods.

Monitoring Climbers' Health:

  • Expedition leaders, guides, and climbing Sherpas monitor the health and well-being of each climber closely. They pay attention to any signs of altitude sickness and encourage open communication among team members to report any symptoms.

Descending for Recovery:

  • If a climber exhibits severe symptoms of altitude sickness, the best course of action is to descend to lower altitudes to seek medical attention. Expedition teams are equipped with emergency plans and resources to handle such situations.


  • Some climbers may use medication like acetazolamide (Diamox) to help with acclimatization. However, this should be discussed with a medical professional before the expedition, and climbers should not solely rely on medication without proper acclimatization and monitoring.

Proper Hydration and Nutrition:

  • Staying well-hydrated and maintaining a balanced diet are crucial factors in preventing altitude sickness. Climbers are advised to drink plenty of fluids and consume nutritious meals to support their physical well-being.

Additional Information

For the Ama Dablam Expedition, climbers and expedition teams are required to obtain various permits and documents to comply with the regulations set by the Government of Nepal. The main permit documents required for the Ama Dablam Expedition are as follows:

Climbing Permit for Ama Dablam:

  • The Climbing Permit is the primary permit required for the Ama Dablam Expedition. It is issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) or the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation. The permit grants climbers permission to climb Ama Dablam and outlines the climbing dates and duration of the expedition.

Sagarmatha National Park Permit:

  • The Sagarmatha National Park Permit is necessary as Ama Dablam is located within the Sagarmatha National Park, a protected area in the Everest region. This permit is obtained from the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation (DNPWC) and supports conservation efforts in the region.

Trekking Information Management System (TIMS) Card:

  • The TIMS Card is required for trekkers and climbers exploring the Everest region. It helps track visitors and provide assistance in case of emergencies. Climbers can obtain the TIMS Card from the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) or the Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal (TAAN).

Liaison Officer (LO):

  • For climbing peaks like Ama Dablam, a Liaison Officer (LO) from the NMA may be required to accompany the expedition team. The LO ensures compliance with regulations and provides communication between the team and the government authorities.


  • Foreign climbers need a valid tourist visa to enter Nepal. The visa can be obtained upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu or at land border crossings. Visa extensions are also available for those planning an extended expedition.

The Ama Dablam Expedition requires a wide range of clothes, gear, and climbing equipment to ensure climbers' safety, comfort, and success on the mountain. The following is a comprehensive list of essential items needed for the expedition:


  • Base Layers: Moisture-wicking and insulating base layers to manage body temperature.
  • Insulating Layers: Fleece or down jackets for warmth at higher altitudes.
  • Hardshell Jacket and Pants: Waterproof and windproof layers to protect against harsh weather conditions.
  • Climbing Pants: Durable and stretchy pants for technical climbing.
  • Gloves: A variety of gloves, including liner gloves, insulated gloves, and waterproof mittens.
  • Headwear: Warm hat, balaclava, buff, and sunglasses with UV protection.
  • Footwear: Sturdy mountaineering boots with crampon compatibility, and comfortable trekking shoes for lower altitudes.
  • Socks: Several pairs of moisture-wicking and insulating socks.
  • Gaiters: To keep snow and debris out of boots.

Climbing Gear and Equipment:

  • Climbing Helmet: For protection against falling rocks and ice.
  • Harness: A comfortable and adjustable harness for roped climbing.
  • Crampons: To provide traction on icy terrain.
  • Ice Axe: For self-arrest and balance during climbs.
  • Climbing Hardware: Carabiners, slings, and ascenders for various climbing techniques.
  • Climbing Rope: Dynamic ropes for roped climbing.
  • Prusik Cord: For self-rescue and ascending ropes.
  • Snow Bar and Ice Screws: For anchoring and protection.
  • Mountaineering Backpack: Large enough to carry gear and supplies for climbing.

Technical Equipment:

  • Climbing Helmet: For protection against falling rocks and ice.
  • Personal Climbing Gear: Climbing harness, carabiners, slings, and prusik cords.
  • Climbing Hardware: Ice axes, crampons, ice screws, snow bars, and ascenders.
  • Ropes: Climbing ropes, static ropes, and ropes for fixed lines.

Miscellaneous Items:

  • Sleeping Bag: Rated for sub-zero temperatures.
  • Sleeping Pad: Insulated sleeping pad for comfort and warmth.
  • Headlamp: With spare batteries for early morning starts and night-time activities.
  • Backpack: A large mountaineering backpack for carrying personal gear during the expedition.
  • Water Bottles and Hydration System: Sufficient capacity for carrying water during climbs.
  • First Aid Kit: Including basic medical supplies and medications.
  • Sunscreen and Lip Balm: High SPF for protection against strong UV rays at high altitudes.
  • Personal Toiletries: Personal hygiene items and wet wipes for sanitation.
  • Camera and Batteries: For capturing memorable moments.

During the Ama Dablam Expedition, climbers and their support staff will stay in a combination of lodges, tents, and base camp facilities.

Here's an overview of the food and accommodation arrangements during the expedition:


  • Kathmandu: In Kathmandu, climbers will stay in comfortable hotels or lodges before and after the expedition. These accommodations provide basic amenities, including private rooms, attached bathrooms, and dining areas.

  • Trekking Lodges: During the trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp, climbers will stay in teahouses or lodges in the villages along the route. These lodges offer simple but comfortable accommodation with shared rooms and basic facilities, such as beds and blankets. While the amenities are more basic at higher elevations, the lodges still provide shelter and meals.

  • Base Camp: At Ama Dablam Base Camp (around 4,600 meters/15,091 feet), climbers and their support team will set up a temporary base camp. Tents will serve as sleeping quarters, and dining tents will be provided for meals and communal activities. Base Camp facilities may also include a kitchen tent and a communication tent.

  • High Camps: During the climbing period, climbers will establish several high camps at strategic points on the mountain. These high camps will consist of tents that serve as temporary shelters during the ascent. The higher the camp, the more basic the facilities become, as climbers are focused on lightweight and functional equipment.


  • In Kathmandu: In the city, climbers can enjoy a variety of food options, including Nepali, continental, and international cuisines, at hotels and restaurants.

  • Trekking Route: During the trek to Base Camp, meals will be provided at the teahouses and lodges along the trail. The menu typically includes a variety of dishes, such as dal bhat (rice and lentil soup), noodles, pasta, potatoes, eggs, and seasonal vegetables.

  • Base Camp: At Base Camp, a dedicated kitchen team will prepare meals for the expedition members. The menu will include a mix of Western and Nepali dishes, as well as high-calorie and nutritious food to support the climbers' energy needs during the climb.

  • High Camps: During the climbing period, climbers will rely on packaged and lightweight food that is easy to prepare and carry. Energy bars, snacks, freeze-dried meals, and hot drinks will be common options at higher altitudes.

Using credit cards for payment during the Ama Dablam Expedition is generally not a common option, especially in the remote areas of the Everest region. While credit cards are widely accepted in Kathmandu and some major cities, they are not practical for transactions in the mountainous and less developed areas, including the villages along the trekking route and Ama Dablam Base Camp.

Here are some important points to consider regarding payment methods during the Ama Dablam Expedition:


In Kathmandu, you can use credit cards for hotel bookings, restaurants, shopping, and other services. However, it's advisable to carry enough cash as some smaller establishments may not accept cards.

Trekking Route:

During the trek from Lukla to Ama Dablam Base Camp, you'll be staying in teahouses and lodges in remote villages. These places usually do not have credit card facilities, and you'll need to pay for accommodation, meals, and other services in cash (Nepalese Rupees).

Base Camp:

At Ama Dablam Base Camp, payment for expedition-related services, such as support staff, climbing equipment, and logistical arrangements, is typically handled by the expedition organizer. They will provide you with information on how to make payments before the expedition begins. Cash is usually the preferred method for settling expenses at Base Camp.

Withdrawal of Cash:

While credit cards may not be widely accepted, there are ATM facilities in Lukla and Namche Bazaar where you can withdraw cash in Nepalese Rupees. However, it's essential to carry enough cash from Kathmandu for the trekking portion of the expedition.


The official currency of Nepal is the Nepalese Rupee (NPR). It's advisable to exchange your foreign currency into NPR in Kathmandu before heading to the mountains.

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