An Everest Expedition from the North Side involves climbing Mount Everest starting from the Tibetan (Chinese) side. The approach to Base Camp is shorter as climbers can drive most of the way, and the North Base Camp sits at a slightly higher altitude than the South Base Camp in Nepal. The standard climbing route is the Northeast Ridge, which requires traversing the North Col, the North Ridge, and the Three Steps. Weather conditions on the North Side are generally colder and windier, and the climbing season aligns with the weather window for the South Side from late April to early June. Climbers need to obtain permits and adhere to regulations managed by the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) and typically have Sherpas as part of their team for crucial support during the expedition.
Being top of the world at 8,848 metres is heavenly and is a dream for every inspired human being on the planet. Some prefer the most climbed South Col route to Everest. But, some peaceful climbers love adventure in the mountains and want to escape the crowd on the expedition. For them, Everest expedition North is the best fit.
Everest expedition North from Tibetan side has straightforward climb than from South. There's no such as the safest route to summit Everest, but if you approach the summit climb from the North, you can escape the notorious Khumbu Icefall section.
The Everest expedition from the North gives the enchanting Buddhism experience with a stunning panorama around Tibetan plateaus. The Rongbuk Monastery is the world's highest seated monastery, worth the visit from the base camp. You'll also climb the 3,000 metres section of Rongbuk Glacier while climbing to Camp I from ABC. On top, you'll get the ideal glimpses of colossal Changatse, Nuptse, Lhotse, and countless mountains in the Mahalangur range.
Do you possess the nerve of steel to scale Everest from the North Face? Be ready to endure the amalgamated harsh wind, cold, exposed ridges, and the rewarding summit climb of the Everest expedition in Autumn 2022.
Some 30 years before the first Everest successful summit, George Mallory attempted to climb Everest from the Northeast face. George Mallory climbed North Col and disappeared on the summit ascent. But, the first successful summit happened in 1953 by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary.
But, the Everest Expedition from Tibet got its first success with a Chinese climber Chu Yin-Hau, Wang Fu-Zhou, and a Tibetan Nawang Gombu. A famous ladder ridge, the second step, was scaled on regular climbing gear by this expedition. Later, another Everest North Face expedition of the 1975 team fixed a ladder on the Second Step. Still, climbers climb the Second Step, a ladder towering over 30 feet.
Between 1950 and 1980, Tibet was closed to foreigners. As a result, Everest Expedition North didn't happen during that period. Later in 1980, the Japanese expedition team summited Everest from the Northeast face via the Hornbein Couloir.
The north face of Everest lies in Tibet. Thus, we'll first reach the Chinese Base Camp and start the expedition preparation. Here's brief information on different High Camps in the Everest expedition North of Tibet.
Unlike Everest Base Camp on the South side of Nepal, the North Base Camp of Everest is accessible with roadways. If you plan an Everest expedition from the Nepal side, you'll have to hike for six days before reaching the base camp at 5,364 metres.
The Chinese government doesn't allow the helicopter to fly across Everest on the Tibet side. But for ease, the pitched roadway takes you to Chinese Base Camp, a gravelled region that sits 8 kilometres up to Rongbuk Monastery.
At 5,150 metres, World Expedition Nepal sets tented camps for an expedition period of nearly two months. These camps are rudimentary camps for acclimatisation before climbing the higher camps.
Intermediate camps are not dedicated High Camps but tented camps for rest as you ascend to Advanced Base Camp at 6,500 metres.
Climbers often require adequate acclimatisation before climbing to ABC. Thus, if anyone in the group needs a rest, we'll use the Intermediate camp for an overnight stay. The route to these camps is rocky terrain filled with snow till mid-spring.
Climbers on acclimatisation rotation barely stop at Intermediate Camps as they reach base camp within a 6-hour decent hike from Advanced Base Camp.
Everest expedition from North has its Advanced Base Camp set at 6,500 metres. It is the world's highest Advanced Camp in the Himalayan range. The altitude of this camp shortens the distance to Camp I, Camp II, and Camp III, making the expedition less risky and tiring.
Experienced 8,000 metres climbers use Advanced Base Camp as the primary camp for acclimatisation rotation. But, for intermediate climbers, Advanced Base Camp causes altitude sickness, and sometimes, they descend to Intermediate Camp at 6,100 metres.
The spectacular North Col is wholly from this camp. During the Spring expedition, most terrain around this camp gets covered with fresh, fluffy snow from winter.
Everest Expedition North’s Camp I at 7,000 metres is also known as North Col. Climbers usually take six hours to climb to Camp I from ABC.
It sits on top of East Rongbuk Glacier, one of two main feeders of Rongbuk Glacier, that stretches to a mighty 26 kilometres.
Climbers begin their Camp I climb by ascending Rongbuk Glacier for an hour. The deep crevasses and icefalls require the utilisation of fixed rope. Our Sherpa fixed the ropes before the expedition. You have to navigate through the ladders placed above the deep crevasses. Most climbers also apply ascenders with fixed ropes for additional safety.
The most used technique for the descent, the arms wrapping technique, comes in handy while descending the steeper ice walls.
Everest climbers from the north spend four to five nights at Camp-I, depending on how fast they acclimatise.
The steeper snowy ridge ends after leaving Camp I and turns to a steeper rocky terrain after a few hours of climb. The high wind speed at these sections causes a rapid drop in temperature, and climbers often get bothered by the cold. Unlike the South expedition from Nepal, the North Col route has slightly higher wind speed and air pressure.
Some expedition groups climb to Camp II for acclimatisation rotation and push the summit from here. But, for better acclimatisation and preparation, World Expedition Nepal includes Camp IV on the itinerary.
Everest expedition North Camp III climb takes more than six hours, even for experienced climbers. The camp sits over an altitude between 8,200 to 8,300. Different expedition teams set their tents over distributed regions.
Camp III sits on an exposed ridge that gets high wind speed. The steeper rocky section for these camps often lets the wind batter the tents. Camp III on the North side sits over 300 metres above Camp III in South Col. And, the worst, Camp III on the North is much more exposed.
Some prefer Camp IV to rest before pushing for the summit. Depending upon weather and other conditions, your climbing guide determines the necessity of Camp IV.
Everest North Summit, 8848 metres
The summit climb is strenuous and 13 hours long. The ravine of Yellow Band is the start point for fixed ropes for all climbers. Climbers start climbing the Northeast route with new supplementary oxygen. The steeper and more arduous climbing routes demand endurance, and climbers find it tiring.
The more cumbersome route starts past Mushroom Rock at 8,600 metres. The summit route past this rock comprises the loose rocks filled with snow.
Another challenge is the Crux or Second Step in the Everest expedition north. Here. climbers have to climb two rock faces on the ladder, a 10-foot high slab of rock, and an almost vertical ladder over 30 feet. The nightmare, if you fail to climb the ladder, you'll fall below from a 9000-foot vertical drop. This section becomes more strenuous while you descend. One misplaced crampon on the ladder, and you're gone.
The summit climb starts at midnight, and climbers reach the top at 8 am. The summit climb is rewarding as you'll see magical glimpses of Nepal and the Tibetan side. It will be a long descent back to Camp III.
Arrival in Kathmandu (1,345 meters)
You arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA), which is the main gateway to Nepal, situated in Kathmandu, the capital city.
After disembarking from the aircraft, you proceed to the immigration counters to present your passport, visa, and other required documents. The immigration process may take some time, so it's essential to have all your paperwork in order.
Once you clear immigration, you proceed to the baggage claim area to collect your luggage. Nepal has a visa-on-arrival system for most nationalities, and you would have obtained your visa at the airport, either before or after clearing immigration.
After collecting your baggage, you pass through the customs area, where your luggage might be subject to inspection.
At the airport exit, you will be warmly welcomed by a representative from The World Expedition Nepal or your designated local guide. They will be holding a sign with your name or the name of The World Expedition Nepal Compony.
The representative from The World Expedition Nepal will assist you with your luggage and provide you with a traditional Nepalese welcome, which may include a "tika" (a red vermillion powder mark) on your forehead and a garland of flowers.
You will then be led to the waiting vehicle, which will take you to your hotel in Thamel. The drive from the airport to the hotel may take around 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the traffic and the location of your accommodation.
As you drive through the streets of Kathmandu, you will be immersed in the city's vibrant atmosphere, with its mix of ancient temples, bustling markets, and colorful street life.
Upon reaching your hotel, you will be greeted by the hotel staff, who will assist you with the check-in process.
After settling into your room, you can take some time to rest and freshen up after your journey. Kathmandu is at a lower altitude compared to the Everest region, so it provides an opportunity for initial acclimatization.
In the evening, you will meet with the expedition team for a comprehensive briefing session. The briefing will cover essential details about the upcoming Everest Expedition, including the detailed itinerary, safety protocols, equipment check, and any last-minute instructions.
Following the briefing, you will have the opportunity to enjoy a welcome dinner with your team members. The dinner may include traditional Nepalese dishes and a chance to interact with your fellow climbers and expedition guides.
Note: Depending on your arrival time, The World Expedition Nepal's schedule, and the group's preferences, certain activities or sightseeing might be planned for the first day or for the next day.
Lunch and dinner in a notable restuarant.
Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
On Day 2, you need to be ready for paper work which is mondatory for your expedition. For this our representative led you to the documentation office.
Permit Issue:
Before embarking on an Everest Expedition from the North Side, climbers must obtain various permits from the Chinese government and the Nepalese government. These permits include:
Preparation:
In the weeks and months leading up to the Everest Expedition, climbers and the expedition team will engage in thorough preparation, including:
Physical Training: Climbers must undergo rigorous physical training to improve their strength, endurance, and fitness levels to cope with the demands of high-altitude mountaineering.
Mental Conditioning: Mental preparation is crucial for coping with the challenges and uncertainties of climbing Everest. Climbers must develop mental resilience, adaptability, and determination.
Equipment Preparation: Climbers need specialized mountaineering equipment, including climbing boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, helmets, and clothing suitable for extreme cold and high-altitude conditions.
Medical Checkup: All team members should undergo a comprehensive medical examination to ensure they are in good health and fit for high-altitude climbing.
Team Building: Team cohesion and communication are essential for a successful expedition. Team members must get to know each other, build trust, and understand each other's strengths and weaknesses.
Last-Minute Shopping:
In Kathmandu, there are plenty of shops that cater to mountaineering and trekking needs. Before departing for the expedition's North Side, climbers might engage in last-minute shopping to ensure they have all the necessary gear and supplies. Items that may be purchased or checked include:
Personal Gear: Any missing or additional personal mountaineering equipment, clothing, and accessories.
Food and Snacks: High-energy food, snacks, and necessary supplements for the expedition.
Fuel and Cooking Equipment: If the expedition plans to use camping stoves, fuel and cooking utensils may need to be purchased or checked.
Expedition Supplies: Group equipment, tents, ropes, and other necessary items will be checked and ensured to be in good condition.
Briefing:
The expedition team will conduct a comprehensive briefing before the actual climb. The briefing typically covers the following topics:
Detailed Itinerary: A step-by-step plan of the expedition, including the schedule for reaching Base Camp, establishing higher camps, and the summit push.
Safety Protocols: Important safety measures, procedures for dealing with emergencies, and communication protocols during the climb.
Weather Updates: Information about the current weather conditions and forecasts that might impact the expedition.
Technical Aspects: Details about the climbing route, potential challenges, and strategies for dealing with difficult sections.
Equipment Check: Ensuring that all climbers have the necessary gear, and conducting a thorough equipment check.
Role Assignments: Allocating responsibilities within the team, including the roles of Sherpas, guides, and climbers.
Communication with Base Camp: Instructions for regular communication with the Base Camp and any support teams.
Final Questions: Providing an opportunity for climbers to ask any last-minute questions or seek clarifications.
The briefing ensures that all team members are well-informed and prepared for the expedition ahead. It is also a time to reinforce the importance of teamwork and safety during the climb.
You will have to stay in kathmandu for 2 days due to the delay in paper work. No worry, you can use these days as aclimatization day or site visiting.
Lunch and dinner in Nepali typical restuarant.
Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
Rasuwa Ghadhi was a border checkpoint between Nepal and Tibet (China). It is situated in the Rasuwa District of Nepal, near the Nepal-China border. The drive from Kathmandu to Rasuwa Ghadhi is part of the journey to reach the Tibetan side of Mount Everest for an expedition from the North Side.
Drive from Kathmandu to Rasuwa Ghadhi (1804m / 5918ft)
After completing all necessary preparations, including obtaining permits and organizing logistics, yowe u will depart from our hotel in Kathmandu.
The drive from Kathmandu to Rasuwa Ghadhi is approximately 120 to 150 kilometers, depending on the route taken and road conditions. The journey usually takes around 5 to 7 hours, considering the mountainous terrain and winding roads.
Leaving Kathmandu, we will drive along the Prithvi Highway, which offers picturesque views of the countryside and rolling hills of Nepal.
Along the way, we will pass through various towns and villages, giving us a glimpse of local life and culture and also have hygienic meal along the way take wsome rest and continue our journey to Rasuwa Ghadhi.
The drive includes navigating through hilly terrain and crossing over several rivers and bridges.
The journey will continue through Trishuli Bazaar, known for its vibrant market, and then towards Dhunche, the district headquarters of Rasuwa District.
After reaching Dhunche, the drive will continue towards the Nepal-China border.
Finally, we will arrive at Rasuwa Ghadhi, which is the border crossing point between Nepal and Tibet (China).
At Rasuwa Ghadhi, we will go through immigration and customs procedures on the Nepalese side before crossing over to the Tibetan side, where further immigration formalities will be completed.
Overnight stay in Rasuwa Ghadhi.
The drive from Rasuwa Ghadhi (Nepal-China border) to Kyirong (also known as Gyirong or Kerung) in Tibet, China, is a key part of the journey to reach the Tibetan side for an Everest Expedition from the North Side. Here's a general outline of the process:
Cross Border and Drive to Kyirong (Kyirong Town) - Elevation: 4114m (13,498ft)
After completing all the necessary immigration and customs formalities on the Nepalese side of the Rasuwa Ghadhi border crossing, we will proceed towards the Chinese border checkpoint.
At the Chinese border checkpoint, we will go through immigration and customs formalities for entry into Tibet, China. This process may involve presenting our visa, permit, and other required documents.
After the immigration and customs checks are completed, we will officially enter Tibet and commence the drive to Kyirong.
The drive from the border to Kyirong is approximately 25 kilometers (about 15 miles) and takes around 1 to 2 hours, depending on road conditions and traffic.
The road from the border to Kyirong is a scenic route that gradually gains altitude as we drive into the Tibetan Plateau.
Along the way, we will enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes, which include picturesque valleys, mountains, and rivers.
Kyirong is a small town situated at an elevation of 4114 meters (13,498 feet). It is the first major town we will encounter after crossing the Nepal-China border.
Upon arrival in Kyirong, we will check into a guesthouse for overnight accommodation. The guesthouses in Kyirong provide basic amenities and comfort suitable for travelers and mountaineers acclimatizing to the higher altitude.
The rest of the day can be dedicated to acclimatization and rest to allow our body to adjust to the higher altitude.
Overnight stay in Kyirong.
Yes, having a rest day in Kyirong for acclimatization is a common practice for individuals undertaking an Everest Expedition from the North Side. Acclimatization is a crucial process that helps climbers adjust to the increasing altitude gradually, reducing the risk of altitude-related illnesses and improving their chances of success on the mountain.
During the rest day in Kyirong, climbers will follow these guidelines:
Staying Hydrated: Drink plenty of fluids, such as water and electrolyte-rich drinks, to stay well-hydrated at the higher altitude.
Light Activity: Engage in light activities, like short walks around the town, to keep the body gently active without overexertion.
Rest and Sleep: Allow ample time for rest and quality sleep, which aids in acclimatization and recovery.
Monitoring Health: Keep an eye on any signs of altitude-related illnesses, such as headache, dizziness, or nausea. Inform the expedition leaders about any symptoms experienced during the acclimatization process.
Avoiding Alcohol and Caffeine: It's best to refrain from alcohol and excessive caffeine consumption, as they can contribute to dehydration and hinder acclimatization.
Breathing Exercises: Practice deep breathing exercises to enhance lung capacity and oxygen intake.
Proper Nutrition: Consume balanced meals with sufficient carbohydrates and proteins to maintain energy levels.
Kyirong, being situated at a relatively lower elevation compared to the higher camps on Everest, provides a favorable environment for acclimatization. This rest day allows the climbers' bodies to adjust gradually to the decreasing oxygen levels, preparing them for the subsequent ascent to higher altitudes.
Overnight stay in Kyirong.
The drive from Kyirong to Tingri is another significant part of the journey when attempting an Everest Expedition from the North Side. Tingri, also spelled as Thingri or Shegar, is an essential location during the approach to the North Face of Mount Everest.
Here's a general outline of the drive:
Drive from Kyirong to Tingri - Elevation: 4350m (14,268ft)
After the acclimatization day in Kyirong, we will continue the drive towards Tingri.
The distance between Kyirong and Tingri is approximately 175 kilometers (about 109 miles), and the drive usually takes around 5 to 7 hours, depending on road conditions and travel pace.
The drive from Kyirong to Tingri offers stunning views of the high-altitude landscapes of Tibet, with snow-capped mountains and vast plateaus.
As we gain elevation during the drive, we will gradually ascend into higher altitudes, so it's essential to continue monitoring your well-being and ensuring we stay hydrated.
The road from Kyirong to Tingri is scenic but may be challenging in some sections due to the mountainous terrain and potential changes in weather conditions.
We will pass through small villages and remote areas, giving us a glimpse of the traditional Tibetan way of life.
Tingri is a small town situated at an elevation of 4350 meters (14,268 feet). It serves as an essential acclimatization stop before ascending to higher camps on Everest.
Upon arrival in Tingri, we will check into a guesthouse or hotel for overnight accommodation. The lodging options in Tingri are basic but adequate for mountaineers acclimatizing to the high altitude.
Having a rest day in Tingri for acclimatization is a standard practice for mountaineers preparing for an Everest Expedition from the North Side. Acclimatization is a gradual process that allows the body to adapt to the higher altitudes, reducing the risk of altitude-related illnesses and increasing the chances of a successful climb.
Here's what climbers typically do during the rest day in Tingri:
Rest and Relaxation: The main focus of the rest day is to allow the body to recover from the previous days' journey and acclimatization activities. Climbers are encouraged to rest and take it easy during this day.
Monitoring Health: Climbers continue to monitor their health and well-being, paying attention to any signs of altitude-related illnesses such as headache, dizziness, nausea, or shortness of breath. Communication with expedition leaders about any symptoms is crucial during this period.
Hydration and Nutrition: Staying well-hydrated and maintaining proper nutrition is essential for acclimatization. Climbers are encouraged to drink plenty of fluids and eat balanced meals to fuel their bodies for the challenges ahead.
Gentle Activities: While the rest day primarily involves rest, some gentle activities may be undertaken, such as short walks around Tingri. These activities help keep the body mildly active without exerting too much effort.
Breathing Exercises: Practicing deep breathing exercises helps improve lung capacity and oxygen intake, aiding the acclimatization process.
Mental Preparation: Climbers use the rest day to mentally prepare themselves for the upcoming climb to higher altitudes. Positive visualization and mental relaxation techniques are often employed.
Gear Check: Climbers may use the rest day to double-check and organize their climbing gear, ensuring everything is in order for the ascent.
Tingri's higher altitude serves as a beneficial acclimatization point before proceeding further towards the advanced base camp and higher camps on Everest. It allows climbers' bodies to gradually adjust to the reduced oxygen levels, preparing them for the increased altitude during the expedition.
After the rest day in Tingri for acclimatization, the next stage of the Everest Expedition from the North Side involves driving to Everest Base Camp (EBC) on the Tibetan side of Mount Everest.
Here's a general outline of the drive:
Drive from Tingri to Everest Base Camp (EBC) - Elevation: 5200m (17,056ft)
From Tingri, we will continue the drive towards Everest Base Camp.
The distance between Tingri and Everest Base Camp is approximately 85 kilometers (about 53 miles), and the drive may take around 3 to 5 hours, depending on road conditions and weather.
The drive to Everest Base Camp takes us further into the Tibetan Plateau, characterized by high-altitude landscapes, vast plains, and majestic mountain views.
As we approach Everest Base Camp, we will encounter the Rongbuk Monastery, one of the world's highest monasteries, which offers stunning views of Everest's North Face.
From the Rongbuk Monastery, the drive continues on a rugged and winding road towards the base camp area.
As we gain altitude during the drive, the oxygen levels decrease, and it's crucial to continue monitoring our well-being and practicing proper acclimatization techniques.
At an elevation of 5200 meters (17,056 feet), Everest Base Camp is the starting point for the climb up the North Face of Mount Everest.
Upon arrival at Everest Base Camp, we will check into the base camp facilities, which are basic and designed to cater to mountaineers and support teams.
After settling in, we may engage in light activities around the base camp area to stretch our legs and become familiar with the surroundings.
Rest and acclimatization remain a priority during the stay at Everest Base Camp. We will continue to be attentive to their health and well-being and follow the guidance of expedition leaders and medical staff.
The stay at Everest Base Camp is an essential period of preparation and acclimatization before proceeding to higher camps and the final summit push.
Overnight stay in Everest Base Camp.
Once at Everest Base Camp (EBC), climbers spend a significant amount of time acclimatizing and preparing for the ascent to the Advance Base Camp (ABC). Acclimatization is critical at this stage as EBC is situated at a relatively high altitude, and climbers will need to gradually adapt to the lower oxygen levels before ascending higher.
Here's how climbers typically spend their time at Everest Base Camp for acclimatization and preparation:
Acclimatization Hikes: Climbers undertake short acclimatization hikes around the base camp area. These hikes help them get accustomed to the higher altitude and progressively prepare their bodies for the ascent to higher camps.
Rest and Recovery: Adequate rest is crucial during the acclimatization phase. Climbers take the time to recover from the journey to EBC and to ensure their bodies are well-rested for the upcoming challenges.
Altitude Training: Some climbers may utilize supplementary oxygen during their stay at EBC to further acclimatize their bodies to the lower oxygen levels. Altitude training with oxygen can be beneficial for some individuals.
Preparing Loads for Advance Base Camp (ABC): Climbers organize and pack equipment and supplies that will be needed at the Advance Base Camp. This preparation involves sorting gear, rationing food, and ensuring that all necessary items are readily available for the higher camps.
Glacier Training: Climbers undergo glacier training at EBC to familiarize themselves with the terrain and the use of technical equipment like crampons, ice axes, and ropes, which will be essential for higher altitudes.
Team Meetings and Briefings: Expedition leaders conduct team meetings and briefings to discuss the planned ascent to ABC, the route, climbing strategies, safety protocols, and potential challenges.
Hydration and Nutrition: Staying well-hydrated and maintaining proper nutrition remain essential during the acclimatization phase to support the body's energy levels and recovery.
Medical Checkups: Regular medical checkups are conducted to monitor climbers' health and assess their readiness for higher altitudes.
Overnight in Base Camp.
The trek from Everest Base Camp (EBC) to Intermediate Camp is an essential part of the acclimatization process and the preparation for climbing Mount Everest from the North Side. Here's a general outline of the trek:
Trek from Everest Base Camp (5200m / 17,056ft) to Intermediate Camp (6200m / 20,336ft)
Leaving Everest Base Camp, the trek to Intermediate Camp is a gradual ascent to higher altitudes.
The distance from EBC to Intermediate Camp is relatively short, but the trek may take around 4 to 6 hours, depending on the weather and the pace of the climbers.
The trail leads through the stunning and vast Rongbuk Glacier, which provides awe-inspiring views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks, including Mount Everest.
As we ascend, the oxygen levels decrease, and the terrain becomes more challenging.
We may encounter some crevasses and uneven surfaces on the glacier, necessitating the use of crampons and proper mountaineering techniques.
The trek from EBC to Intermediate Camp serves as an important acclimatization hike, allowing us to gradually adapt to higher altitudes.
Upon reaching Intermediate Camp, we will set up tents and spend the night at this higher elevation.
At Intermediate Camp, we may continue with their acclimatization routines, including staying well-hydrated, monitoring their health, and getting ample rest.
The stay at Intermediate Camp provides an opportunity for further acclimatization before continuing to higher camps, such as Advanced Base Camp (ABC) and beyond.
Overnight stay in Intermediate Camp.
Trek from Intermediate Camp to Advance Base Camp (6400m / 20,992ft)
From Intermediate Camp, climbers continue their ascent to Advance Base Camp, which is situated at an elevation of 6400 meters (20,992 feet).
The trek from Intermediate Camp to ABC takes around 3 to 5 hours, depending on the climbers' acclimatization progress and the terrain.
The trail from Intermediate Camp to ABC involves crossing the Rongbuk Glacier, which requires careful navigation through crevasses and icy sections. Climbers may use crampons and ropes for safety.
The ascent to ABC can be physically demanding due to the higher altitude and challenging conditions. We must pace themselves and remain well-hydrated during the trek.
Upon reaching ABC, we will set up their tents and establish a temporary base for the next stages of the expedition.
Advance Base Camp offers spectacular views of the North Face of Mount Everest and the surrounding Himalayan peaks, making it a breathtaking and inspiring location.
At ABC, we will rest and continue their acclimatization routine, which may include short hikes to higher altitudes during the acclimatization rotations.
During their stay at ABC, we and the expedition team will finalize their plans for further ascents, including the establishment of higher camps, fixing ropes, and the summit push.
We will also conduct gear checks, organize their climbing equipment, and ensure that they are prepared for the challenges ahead.
Communication with the Base Camp and support teams will be maintained from ABC to stay connected with the rest of the expedition.
The stay at Advance Base Camp can vary, but climbers typically spend several days to weeks at this location to acclimatize adequately before progressing further up the mountain.
During the climbing period from Day 15 to Day 58, we and our expedition team will be actively involved in ascending Mount Everest from the North Side. This period encompasses the climb from Advance Base Camp (ABC) to the higher camps, culminating in the summit attempt. Here's an overview of what typically occurs during this stage:
Day 15-19: Establishing Higher Camps
Day 19-28: Acclimatization Rotations
Day 29-34: Rest and Weather Waiting
Day 34-38: Summit Push
Day 39-58: Summit Success or Return
Trek from Advance Base Camp to Interim Camp
Overnight stay in Intermediate Base Camp.
Trek back from Interim Camp to Everest Base Camp
Rest and Recovery
Base Camp Cleanup and Packing
The drive from Everest Base Camp to Kyirong is an important part of the return journey for climbers who have completed an Everest Expedition from the North Side. It involves traveling from the base camp on the Tibetan side of Mount Everest to Kyirong, a town situated on the Nepal-China border.
Here's an overview of the drive:
Day 62: Trek from Everest Base Camp to Tingri
Day 63: Drive from Tingri to Kyirong
Upon reaching Tingri, we will transition from trekking to driving mode for the journey to Kyirong.
The drive from Tingri to Kyirong takes around 5 to 7 hours, depending on road conditions and weather.
The road from Tingri to Kyirong offers scenic views of the Tibetan Plateau and the surrounding mountains.
We will pass through valleys, villages, and beautiful landscapes during the drive.
The road from Tingri to Kyirong is winding, and some sections may be challenging due to the mountainous terrain.
The expedition team will arrange transportation for us and our equipment to ensure a comfortable and safe journey.
Kyirong is a small town situated at an elevation of approximately 4114 meters (13,498 feet) on the Tibetan side of the Nepal-China border.
Upon arrival in Kyirong, we will check into accommodations for rest and relaxation.
Kyirong serves as a transit point for climbers returning to Kathmandu, as it is the last major town before the Nepal-China border.
We may spend some time in Kyirong before proceeding to the border crossing for immigration and customs procedures.
Overngiht stay in Kyirong.
The drive from Kyirong to Kathmandu is the final leg of the return journey for climbers who have completed an Everest Expedition from the North Side. After crossing the Nepal-China border at Kyirong, we will continue their journey back to Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal. Here's an overview of the drive:
Drive from Kyirong to Kathmandu
After completing immigration and customs procedures at the Nepal-China border in Kyirong, we will officially enter Nepal.
The drive from Kyirong to Kathmandu takes approximately 5 to 7 hours, depending on road conditions, traffic, and weather.
The drive from Kyirong to Kathmandu offers beautiful views of the Nepalese countryside, with scenic landscapes, lush valleys, and charming villages along the way.
The road from Kyirong to Kathmandu is winding and may have some challenging sections due to the mountainous terrain.
The expedition team will arrange transportation for climbers and their equipment, ensuring a comfortable and safe journey.
Along the way, we will indulge our lunch, take some rest and continue our drive.
Along the way, we will pass through towns like Syabrubesi and Dhunche before continuing to Kathmandu.
Upon arrival in Kathmandu, we will check into their hotel and have a well-deserved rest after the adventurous expedition.
We will have the opportunity to celebrate their successful Everest Expedition and share their experiences with their fellow climbers and support team.
Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
A leisure day in Kathmandu is a wonderful opportunity for climbers and trekkers to relax and explore the vibrant capital city of Nepal after completing an Everest Expedition from the North Side. Kathmandu is rich in history, culture, and sights, offering a wide range of activities to enjoy. Here are some suggestions for how climbers might spend their leisure day in Kathmandu:
Sightseeing: Visit iconic cultural and historical landmarks such as Kathmandu Durbar Square, Swayambhunath Stupa (also known as the Monkey Temple), Boudhanath Stupa, and Pashupatinath Temple. These UNESCO World Heritage sites offer insights into Nepal's rich cultural heritage.
Thamel Exploration: Thamel is a popular tourist neighborhood known for its vibrant atmosphere, numerous shops, restaurants, and bars. Enjoy a leisurely stroll, shop for souvenirs, and try local delicacies.
Relaxation and Spa: Treat yourself to a relaxing massage or spa session to soothe your muscles and rejuvenate after the physically demanding expedition.
Traditional Nepali Cuisine: Experience the flavors of Nepal by trying authentic Nepali dishes like momo (dumplings), dal bhat (rice and lentil soup), and Newari cuisine.
Cultural Performances: Attend cultural performances, such as traditional dance shows and music concerts, to immerse yourself in Nepalese culture.
Visit Garden of Dreams: Spend some quiet time at the Garden of Dreams, a beautifully landscaped garden in the heart of Kathmandu, offering a peaceful oasis in the bustling city.
Art and Handicrafts: Explore art galleries and handicraft shops to admire and purchase traditional Nepali artwork and crafts.
Yoga and Meditation: Participate in yoga and meditation sessions at various centers in Kathmandu to relax the mind and body.
Mountain Flight: Take a scenic mountain flight for a close-up view of the majestic Himalayan peaks, including Mount Everest.
Outdoor Cafes: Relax at one of the many outdoor cafes in Kathmandu, sipping local tea or coffee while observing the city's vibrant atmosphere.
Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
The final departure from Kathmandu marks the end of the Everest Expedition from the North Side and the return journey to your home country or onward travel to your next destination. Here's an overview of the process:
Final Departure from Kathmandu
At the Airport:
Arrive at the airport well in advance of your flight's departure time to allow for check-in procedures and security checks.
If you have booked your flight in advance, proceed to the airline's check-in counter to receive your boarding pass and check your luggage.
After completing the check-in process, proceed to the immigration counter to clear the exit formalities.
Make sure to have all your necessary travel documents, including your passport, visa, and any required permits, readily available.
Once you have cleared immigration, proceed to the security check area and then to the departure gate.
Spend your remaining time at the airport relaxing in the departure lounge, where you can shop at duty-free stores or enjoy refreshments before your flight.
Board your flight and bid farewell to Nepal, cherishing the memories of your incredible Everest Expedition and the beauty of the Himalayas.
It's essential to note that flight schedules can change, and it's always advisable to check your flight status with the airline before heading to the airport. Be sure to arrive at the airport with ample time to avoid any last-minute rush.
Climbing Mount Everest from the North Side is an incredibly challenging and demanding undertaking. The route from the North Side, also known as the Tibet Side, presents unique difficulties and obstacles that climbers must navigate. Some of the main difficulties faced during an Everest Expedition from the North Side include:
Extreme Altitude:
Harsh Weather:
Technical Climbing:
Remote and Limited Access:
Restricted Permits:
Long Approach:
Difficult Border Crossing:
Limited Helicopter Rescue Options:
Limited Communication:
Psychological Challenges:
The best months for Everest Expedition from the North Side, also known as the Tibet Side, are during the spring and autumn seasons. These months offer relatively stable weather conditions, lower risk of storms, and better chances of a successful summit attempt. Here's a detailed overview of the best months for an Everest Expedition from the North Side:
Spring Season (April to May):
Autumn Season (September to November):
Climbers can indeed climb Mount Everest from the north side, located in Tibet (China). This alternative route involves obtaining a climbing permit from Chinese authorities, organizing an expedition through a Chinese-approved agency, and commencing the ascent from Everest Base Camp on the north side. Climbing Everest from the north side presents unique challenges, including high altitudes, harsh weather conditions, technical sections, and limited infrastructure. Regardless of the chosen side, climbing Everest is an exceptionally demanding and hazardous endeavor that necessitates rigorous preparation, physical fitness, technical expertise, and the support of a well-organized expedition team, with safety always being the top priority.
The difficulty level of climbing Mount Everest from the north or south side is subjective and depends on various factors. The south side, also known as the Nepal side, is more popular and has a higher success rate due to its well-established infrastructure, easier access, and the presence of more experienced guiding companies. In contrast, the north side, also known as the Tibet side, is less crowded and offers a quieter and more remote experience, but it presents challenges such as a longer approach, harsher weather, and technical sections. Ultimately, both sides of Everest require exceptional physical and mental preparation, and climbers must carefully consider their experience, preferences, and support team while making a decision.
Many climbers have successfully climbed the North Face of Mount Everest over the years. The North Face of Everest, located on the Tibet (China) side, offers a challenging and technical ascent. Some notable climbers who have accomplished this feat include:
Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler:
In 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made history by becoming the first climbers to reach the summit of Everest without supplemental oxygen, ascending via the North Face.
Junko Tabei:
The Japanese mountaineer Junko Tabei became the first woman to reach the summit of Everest, also via the North Face, in 1975.
Sir Chris Bonington and Doug Scott:
In 1975, the British mountaineers Sir Chris Bonington and Doug Scott successfully climbed the North Face via the difficult Hornbein Couloir route, one of the most challenging routes on the mountain.
Wang Fuzhou, Gonpo, and Qu Yinhua:
This Chinese expedition team successfully made the first official ascent of Everest's North Face in 1960.
The safety of climbing Mount Everest depends on various factors and is not inherently determined by the side of the mountain. Both the North Side (Tibet Side) and the South Side (Nepal Side) have their unique challenges and risks. The South Side is more popular and has better-established infrastructure, including a more well-defined route, numerous guiding companies, and more frequent rescue operations. However, the South Side can be crowded during peak climbing seasons, leading to potential bottlenecks and increased risks. The North Side offers a quieter and less-crowded experience but may present challenges due to the longer approach, harsher weather conditions, and fewer rescue options
During the Everest Expedition from the North Side, climbers are susceptible to altitude sickness due to the extreme altitudes they encounter. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is common at higher elevations and may manifest as headaches, dizziness, and fatigue. More severe forms include High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) affecting the lungs, and High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) affecting the brain, both of which require immediate medical attention and descent to lower altitudes. To minimize the risk, climbers must acclimatize gradually, take rest days, stay hydrated, and use supplemental oxygen as needed. Awareness of symptoms and open communication with expedition leaders are crucial for a safe and successful climb.
Yes, for an Everest Expedition from the North Side, it is highly recommended to have a guide and porter to enhance the safety and success of the climb. While it is possible for experienced climbers to attempt Everest without a guide or porter, having them as part of the expedition team offers several advantages:
Expertise and Experience:
A professional guide with extensive experience in climbing Everest and navigating the North Side route provides valuable expertise and knowledge. They are familiar with the technical sections, weather patterns, and best practices for high-altitude climbing.
Safety and Support:
Guides prioritize the safety of climbers and make critical decisions during the expedition. They can recognize signs of altitude sickness and other health issues and offer guidance on managing them. In case of emergencies, they are trained to handle rescue situations.
Logistics and Planning:
Guides handle the logistics of the expedition, including obtaining permits, arranging transportation, organizing accommodations, and managing supplies. This allows climbers to focus on their physical and mental preparation.
Acclimatization and Pacing:
Guides facilitate proper acclimatization by designing a suitable itinerary with rest days for climbers to adjust to high altitudes. They also set a steady and safe pace during the ascent to minimize the risk of altitude-related illnesses.
Porter Support:
Cultural and Language Assistance:
Local guides and porters can act as cultural bridges, helping climbers understand the local customs and traditions, as well as facilitating communication with the local community.
An Everest Expedition from the North Side requires a comprehensive set of clothes, gear, and climbing equipment to ensure safety and comfort during the challenging climb in extreme conditions.
Here's a detailed list of essential items needed for the expedition:
Clothing:
Footwear:
Climbing Gear:
Camping Equipment:
Other Gear and Equipment:
For an Everest Expedition from the North Side, several permit documents are required to climb the mountain and enter the restricted regions in Tibet (China). These permits are issued by the Chinese government and authorities in Tibet. Here are the main permit documents needed for the expedition:
Climbing Permit:
The Climbing Permit is the primary permit required for the Everest Expedition. It allows climbers to attempt the ascent of Mount Everest from the North Side. The permit is issued by the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) and is specific to each climber.
Tibet Travel Permit:
The Tibet Travel Permit, also known as the Tibet Entry Permit or TTB Permit, is a mandatory document for all travelers entering Tibet. It is issued by the Tibet Tourism Bureau and is required for both climbers and support staff to enter Tibet and travel to Everest Base Camp.
Alien Travel Permit:
The Alien Travel Permit, also known as PSB Permit (Public Security Bureau Permit), is required for travel to certain restricted areas in Tibet, including the Everest Base Camp area. It is issued by the Public Security Bureau (PSB) of the relevant region and is essential for travel within the restricted regions.
Border Permit:
The Border Permit, also known as the China-Nepal Border Pass or Kyirong Border Pass, is required for the journey from Kyirong (Nepal-China border) to the Tibetan side. This permit is issued by the local authorities at the border checkpoint.
There is no specific age restriction set by the Chinese authorities for joining an Everest Expedition from the North Side. However, climbers must be in excellent physical condition, have previous mountaineering experience, and possess the necessary skills and technical knowledge to handle the challenges of climbing Everest. The North Side expedition is extremely demanding and involves prolonged exposure to high altitudes, harsh weather conditions, and technical climbing sections. Therefore, climbers should carefully assess their physical fitness, mental readiness, and mountaineering proficiency before attempting the expedition. Additionally, some expedition companies may have their own age restrictions or requirements for participants, so climbers should check with their chosen expedition organizer for any specific age-related policies.
The cost for a 66-day Everest Expedition from the North Side could range from approximately $40,000 to $100,000 USD or even higher.
The cost typically covers various expenses such as climbing permits, logistics, transportation, food, accommodation, climbing equipment, support staff salaries, and expedition services. It may also include helicopter flights, oxygen supply, and emergency rescue arrangements.
It's important to note that while some companies may offer lower-cost expeditions, it's essential to prioritize safety and ensure that the expedition organizer is reputable and experienced in organizing Everest climbs. Climbers should carefully review the inclusions and exclusions of the expedition package, ask for a detailed breakdown of the costs, and understand what additional expenses they may need to bear during the climb.
Climbers are encouraged to compare multiple expedition companies, read reviews from previous climbers, and choose an expedition that offers a balance between cost, safety, and quality of services. Investing in a well-organized and experienced expedition can significantly increase the chances of a safe and successful Everest climb from the North Side.
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8000m Peak Climbing , Nepal 
66 Days 
US$31000