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Makalu Expedition

Makalu Expedition

Makalu Expedition Overview

Makalu Expedition Trip Facts

Trip Price :
$19100/person
Location :
8000m Peak Climbing
Difficulty :
Moderate
Max. Altitude :
5000
Duration
55 days
Accomodation
Hotel Lodge Trek House and Tented Camp
Elevation
8485
Best Season
March to May/September to November
Transportation
on private vehicle / hired bus and On flight
Trip Type
Hiking/ Trekking/ Climbing
Start from
Kathmandu
Ends at
Kathmandu
Min Group
2
Max Group
16
Walking Hours
6-7 hours
Food
Breakfast Lunch and Dinner
Hotel/Lodge
Lodge
Luggage Restriction
2
Weight Restriction
20 kg
Mountain Views
Offers stunning view of surrounding snow capped peaks
21000 US$19100
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The Makalu Expedition is a challenging and prestigious mountaineering endeavor that involves climbing Makalu, the fifth highest peak in the world at 8,485 meters (27,838 feet). Located in the Mahalangur Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and China, the expedition demands exceptional physical fitness, technical climbing skills, and a strong mindset to tackle the extreme altitude, unpredictable weather, and treacherous terrain. The climb typically starts from the Nepalese side, with climbers facing multiple camps, steep ridges, icefalls, and crevasses before reaching the summit. The expedition not only offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks but also tests climbers' resilience and determination, making it a coveted achievement in the mountaineering community. Safety, teamwork, and thorough preparation are essential for a successful Makalu Expedition.

Far more technical climb than Everest and other 8,000 metres mountains, the Makalu expedition is a thrill and hurdle for mountaineers. Rising above 8,485 metres, on Makalu Barun National Park and just 20 km South East to Mt. Everest, Makalu is a spectacular facet of 4 distinctive sides. 

Before approaching the summit, first, you'll set a journey to the Makalu Base Camp trek after landing at Tumlingtar airport. The last remains of untouched vegetation and alpine meadows of Makalu Barun National Park make the hike serene. The true heaven of this landscape unfolds as we hike for days via Sedua, Num, Shipton La Pass, and Barun River. The appealing glimpses of Chamlang Himal and Makal collectively keep the hike to base camp engaging. 

Makalu expedition demands experienced climbers 

There's no denying the fact that Makalu is a technical and treacherous climb. The open, knife-exposed climbing ridges and the steep gradient of the summit climb are extremes of the Manaslu expedition. On top, unlike other 8,000ers, climbing the Makalu summit demands the technical abilities of ice and rock climbing. Hence, out of 234 summit attempts, nearly 27 have died during the ascent and descent, making it the 7th deadliest mountain in the world. 

History of Makalu Expedition

The world's 5th highest mountain, Makalu, sits in the Mahalangur range. It's an integral part of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu, where some have often climbed all three in one window in recent years. 

But some 70 years ago, in the Spring of 1954, an expedition named California Himalayan Expedition was set for Makalu Expedition. The team led by William Siri, followed by Allen Steck and William E. Long, climbed 7,100 metres near Makalu Camp III when a snowstorm hindered their attempt. 

Almost a year after the first successful Everest summit in 1953, Edmund Hillary and his team from New Zealand attempted to climb Makalu in the spring of 1954 but remained unsuccessful. They sustained injuries and illnesses that made them abort the summit climb. 

Ultimately, the late Spring of 1954 saw the first successful summit of the Makalu expedition, a French Expedition Team led by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy. The following day on the 16th of May, 1955, Gyalzen Sherpa, Guido Magnone, and Franco from the French team became the second team to scale the Makalu summit. Andre Vialatte, Pierre Leroux, Jean Bouvier, and Serge Coupe were the climbers to reach the Makalu summit on the 17th of May, 1955. 

Makalu expedition- Route to summit 

There are two preferred Makalu summit routes, the NorthWest and Southeast Ridge. The climbing route becomes stiffer and steeper as you climb further higher. On leaving the Base Camp, you'll hike on comfortable glaciers and steep blue ice and snow terrains above Camp IV. The continuous climb on steep ridges in other seasons than Spring is often riskier than it usually is. 

The fresh and deep snow in Spring lowers the chances of rockfalls and avalanches. World Expedition Nepal sets up four High Camps and one Advanced Base Camp. Camp I and II will be used for acclimatisation climb and rotation until you adapt to the environment. The summit push will be directly from Camp II to Camp III and staying at Camp IV for rest before pushing the summit. 

Makalu Advanced Base Camp at 5,600 metres 

We'll set Advanced Base Camp over the rocky surface of glacier moraines that offers the inspiring panorama of the Makalu region. 

Here, our Sherpa guides will train you and take you to acclimatisation rotation, gear checks, and proper rest. Our full board service includes meals and accommodations at Advanced Base Camps. The kitchen, bathrooms, and personal tents for the accommodation of climbers from World Expedition Nepal will be properly set up and managed by the Makalu expedition crew. 

As an homage, Sherpa will organise a Pooja ceremony to the mountain god, asking for permission to climb and the success of the Makalu expedition.

Makalu Camp I at 6,400 metres

After leaving Advanced Base Camp, you'll experience the arduous demand of Makalu. Climbers have to navigate through the gradient ice-snow walls with the aid of fixed lines till Camp I. Our Sherpa will fix the rope long before we leave the Advanced Base Camp. 

The setting of Camp I will be on top of the glacial plateau, where members from another expedition team will be in proximity. There'll be two nights of stay at Camp I for better acclimatisation.

Makalu Camp II at 6,600 metres

The climb from Camp I at 6,400 metres to Camp Ii at 6,800 metres is the easiest and shortest climb in the entire Makalu expedition. For experienced climbers, it only takes one and a half hours to reach Camp II from Camp I. 

Some sections en route to Camp II demand the use of Jumar, but otherwise, you'll walk by clipping the fixed rope to be cautious from crevasses. 

Camp II sits on a 300-metre flat terrain, slightly inclined, at 6,600 metres. Most climbers climb to Camp II straight without stopping at Camp-I for day two during acclimatisation rotation and the summit day. 

Makalu Camp III at 7,400 metres

As you climb further, the more technical the climb becomes. The climb II to Camp III now gets technically arduous as you'll climb past the steeper open snow slopes, so deep that it may cover the crevasses and is prone to avalanche. 

The French route, the route to Camp III via Makalu La and NorthWest ridge, consists of the terrain of blue ice and rocks. Thus, climbing the assorted terrain of blue ice and rocks till Makalu La at 7,450 metres, walking past 200 metres of the flat icy surface, takes us to Camp III at 7,400 metres. 

The selection of an apt fixed-line and navigating through rocky terrain to Camp III drains climbers, mentally and physically. 

Makalu Camp III to summit, 8,485 metres

Besides few, most climbers climb the summit directly from Camp III after a couple of hours of sleep. The most experienced climbers also take nearly 8 hours to reach the summit. For inexperienced climbers, it may take ten hours to scale the summit. 

The navigation on blue ice becomes a hurdle before climbing a steep ridge. The climbing section hardly has any resting places besides one or two plateaus. 

It takes around 20 minutes to reach the actual Makalu summit from the false summit. Most climbers climb to the false summit and can't progress further. But, World Expedition Nepal will have fixed lines till the false Makalu summit, and our Sherpa will take you to the actual Makalu summit. 

The rewarding summit of Makalu offers magical glimpses of Everest and Lhotse, with countless mountains in sight.

Makalu Expedition Itinerary

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Upon arriving at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) in Kathmandu, which is the main international airport in Nepal, you will go through the usual immigration and customs procedures.

Here's a detailed account of what to expect:

Immigration:

After disembarking from the aircraft, proceed to the immigration hall. Have your passport, visa (if required), and any necessary entry documents ready for inspection. Fill out the immigration form provided if needed. Once your documents are verified, the immigration officer will stamp your passport, allowing you to enter Nepal legally.

Baggage Claim:

After clearing immigration, proceed to the baggage claim area to collect your checked luggage. Make sure to identify your bags correctly before leaving the carousel.

Customs:

After retrieving your luggage, proceed to the customs clearance area. Here, you will need to submit a customs declaration form. The customs officer may randomly check your bags for any restricted or prohibited items. Nepal allows tourists to bring in reasonable amounts of personal belongings and duty-free items.

Arrival Hall:

Once you pass through customs, you will enter the arrival hall of TIA. Look for your name or the name of World Expedition Nepal / our representative on placards held by drivers or guides. If you have pre-arranged transportation, your guide or driver will be waiting for you here.

Meet and Greet:

Your guide or the World Expedition Nepal representative will welcome you and assist you further. They will help you with your luggage and guide you to the transportation arranged for you.

Transfer to Hotel:

The guide or driver will accompany you to the vehicle, usually a private car or van. From the airport, you will head towards the city center or your designated hotel. The drive may take around 20 to 45 minutes, depending on the location of your hotel and traffic conditions.

Check-in at Hotel:

Upon reaching your hotel, you will proceed to the reception area for check-in. Provide your passport and reservation details to the hotel staff. They will verify your booking and allocate your room.

Rest and Refresh:

After checking in, you can head to your room to rest, refresh, and recover from the journey. Enjoy the amenities and services provided by the hotel.

Briefing:

Your guide or the  World Expedition Nepal's representative may schedule a pre-expedition briefing at the hotel. This meeting will provide you with essential information about the upcoming Makalu Expedition, including the itinerary, necessary permits, equipment checks, and other important details.

Free Time:

Depending on your arrival time, you may have some free time to explore the nearby areas, rest, or do some last-minute shopping for any necessary expedition gear or supplies.

World Expedition Nepal will offers welcome dinner in Nepali Typical Restuarant.

Overnight stay in Kathmandu.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
1345

Today you wil have to go for  documentation process.After having breakfast on your hotel, you will visit Nepal Tourism Office at Bhrikuti mandap with our representative. You will spend 2-3 hour for paper work .After that you will indulge cuisine in restuarant. 

Certainly! Here's a detailed breakdown of the permit issue, expedition preparation, last-minute shopping, and briefing for the Makalu Expedition:

Permit Issue:

  • Makalu Expedition requires various permits, including the Makalu Barun National Park Permit and the Makalu Climbing Permit.
  • Your guiding company or expedition organizer will handle the permit application process on your behalf. They will collect your necessary documents, passport copies, and passport-sized photos to submit to the respective authorities in Kathmandu.
  • The permit issuance may take a couple of days, so it's essential to plan ahead and arrive in Kathmandu with sufficient time before your expedition's start date.

Expedition Preparation:

  • In the days leading up to the expedition, your guiding company will organize a pre-expedition briefing. This meeting is typically held at the hotel where you are staying.
  • The briefing will cover the entire expedition plan, day-by-day itinerary, the climbing route, high-altitude challenges, safety protocols, and the roles of the expedition team members.
  • You will also receive guidance on packing and organizing your personal gear, including clothing, mountaineering equipment, and necessary supplies.
  • The team leader or expedition guide will discuss communication procedures, emergency protocols, and decision-making processes on the mountain.

Last-Minute Shopping:

  • After the pre-expedition briefing, you may have some time to do some last-minute shopping for any items you still need for the expedition.
  • Thamel, a popular area in Kathmandu, is an excellent place for shopping. There, you can find mountaineering and trekking gear shops that sell or rent items like climbing boots, crampons, ice axes, sleeping bags, down jackets, and other essential equipment.
  • Make sure to check your gear list provided by the guiding company to ensure you have everything required for the expedition.

Briefing Continuation:

  • The briefing may continue the next day if there's a need for additional discussions or practical demonstrations (e.g., how to use technical gear, rope skills, etc.).
  • The team might also perform gear checks to ensure everyone is adequately equipped and prepared for the climb.

Final Preparations:

  • In the last days before the expedition, the team will conduct final preparations, including packing and organizing expedition supplies, food, and equipment.
  • There might be additional team-building activities or final medical checks to ensure everyone is fit for the expedition.
  • Your guiding company will arrange for transportation from Kathmandu to the starting point of the trek, where your actual Makalu Expedition will begin.

After completing the required process for Makalu Expedition, you will led back to the hotel and take rest here. 

Overnight stay in Kathmandu.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
1345

After completing the necessary preparations, we will embark on our journey to Makalu Base Camp.

Here's a detailed outline of the flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and the trek to Khadbari:

Flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (1,040 m):

  • Early in the morning, we will be transferred from our hotel in Kathmandu to the domestic terminal of Tribhuvan International Airport.
  • Board a short domestic flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar, a small town located in eastern Nepal.
  • The flight offers stunning views of the Himalayas, including Mt. Everest and Makalu on clear days.
  • Upon landing in Tumlingtar, we'll meet the local trekking staff who will accompany us during the trek.

 (Continued) Trek to Khadbari (1,040 m - 4 hrs walk):

  • The trek starts with a descent from Tumlingtar towards the Arun River.
  • Crossing the river, the trail gradually ascends through small villages and terraced fields.
  • We'll pass through beautiful forests and enjoy the serene natural surroundings.
  • The trekking route may take us through rural settlements, allowing us to interact with the friendly locals and experience their unique culture.
  • After about 4 hours of walking, we'll reach the town of Khadbari, where we'll spend the night.

Overnight in Khadbari.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
1040

Continuing from Khadbari, the next leg of the trek takes us to Chichila.

Here's a detailed itinerary for this part of the journey:

Trek from Khadbari to Chichila (1,830 m - 5/6 hrs walk):

  • After breakfast in Khadbari, start our trek towards Chichila, which offers beautiful views of the surrounding landscapes and mountains.
  • The trail initially ascends through terraced fields and small villages. We may encounter local farmers working in their fields or herding livestock along the way.
  • As we gain altitude, the vegetation changes, and we'll enter rhododendron and oak forests, providing a pleasant atmosphere during the trek.
  • The trail is well-marked and passes through several small settlements, where we can take short breaks and interact with the locals.
  • Depending on our pace and the group's fitness level, it may take around 5 to 6 hours to reach Chichila from Khadbari.
  • Chichila is a small village located at an elevation of 1,830 meters, offering fantastic views of the surrounding hills and mountains.

Overnight in Chichila.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
1830

Continuing from Chichila, the next segment of the trek takes us to Num.

Here's a detailed itinerary for this part of the journey:

Trek from Chichila to Num (1,490 m - 5 hrs walk):

  • After breakfast in Chichila, start our trek towards Num. The trail initially descends through lush forests of rhododendron and magnolia.
  • As we descend, we'll get occasional glimpses of stunning mountain views and the surrounding landscapes.
  • The trail can be uneven at times, so it's essential to watch our step and trek carefully.
  • Along the way, we may encounter local villagers going about their daily activities, and we'll have opportunities to interact with them and learn about their culture.
  • After about 5 hours of trekking, we'll reach Num, a small village located at an altitude of 1,490 meters.

Overnight in Num.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
1490

Trek from Num to Sedua (1,460 m - 5/6 hrs walk):

  • After breakfast in Num, begin our trek towards Sedua. The trail initially descends steeply through terraced fields and dense forests.
  • We'll cross several suspension bridges over the Arun River and its tributaries. These bridges offer thrilling experiences as they swing gently with each step.
  • The trail gradually ascends after crossing the river, taking us through charming villages and farmlands.
  • We'll pass through small settlements like Runruma and Nabagaun, where we can interact with the friendly locals and learn about their way of life.
  • The trek continues through rhododendron and bamboo forests, offering refreshing shades during sunny days.
  • After about 5 to 6 hours of walking, we'll reach the village of Sedua, situated at an altitude of 1,460 meters.

Overnight in Sedua.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
1460

Trek from Sedua to Tashi Gaon (2,070 m - 5 hrs walk):

  • After breakfast in Sedua, begin our trek towards Tashi Gaon. The trail continues through beautiful forests and small settlements.
  • The route gradually ascends, offering glimpses of the surrounding mountains and lush greenery.
  • We'll pass through several traditional villages, including Balung, where we can observe the daily activities of the locals and experience their hospitality.
  • As we gain altitude, the vegetation changes, and we'll enter areas with more alpine vegetation.
  • The trail is well-marked and moderately challenging, with some steep sections and gentle ascents.
  • After approximately 5 hours of trekking, we'll arrive at Tashi Gaon, a picturesque village situated at an altitude of 2,070 meters.

Overnight in Tashi Gaon.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
2070

Certainly! Here's a detailed itinerary for the trek from Tashi Gaon to Kauma:

Trek from Tashi Gaon to Kauma (3,470 m - 6 hrs walk):

  • After breakfast in Tashi Gaon, begin our trek towards Kauma. The trail ascends gradually, passing through beautiful rhododendron and bamboo forests.
  • We'll continue to experience the warm hospitality of the local people and witness their unique way of life.
  • The trail becomes steeper as we ascend further, and we'll encounter several small streams and waterfalls along the way.
  • Along the way we will spend few hour at trekhouse for fueling us, take some rest and continue out trek.
  • The higher we go, the more breathtaking the views become, with panoramic vistas of snow-capped peaks and verdant valleys.
  • The trek can be physically demanding, but the stunning surroundings and the excitement of being in the high mountains will keep us motivated.
  • After around 6 hours of trekking, we'll reach Kauma, a high-altitude grazing area, situated at an elevation of 3,470 meters.

Overnight in Kauma.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
3470

Taking a rest day at Kauma is an essential part of acclimatization during high-altitude treks and expeditions. It allows our body to adapt to the increasing elevation and reduces the risk of altitude-related illnesses.

Here's what a rest day at Kauma might look like:

Rest Day at Kauma:

  • On the rest day, we will wake up at our leisure and have a relaxed breakfast.
  • The day is meant for resting, acclimatizing, and recuperating from the previous days of trekking and gaining altitude.
  • We can explore the surroundings of Kauma, which offers magnificent views of the surrounding peaks and pristine landscapes.
  • It's a great opportunity to take photographs, enjoy the serenity of the mountains, and immerse ourself in the natural beauty of the region.
  • We can engage in light activities, such as short walks or gentle hikes, to keep our body active without exerting yourself too much.
  • Our trekking team might organize activities like stretching sessions or provide information about the next leg of the trek and the challenges ahead.
  • Throughout the day, it's crucial to stay well-hydrated and consume nutritious meals to aid in the acclimatization process.

Overnight stay in Kauma.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
3470

Trek from Kauma to Mumbuk (3,570 m - 5 hrs trek):

  • After a restful day in Kauma, we will resume our trek towards Mumbuk. The trail gradually ascends, taking us through rocky terrain and alpine vegetation.
  • We may encounter yak herders with their livestock grazing in the high-altitude meadows, adding to the picturesque scenery.
  • The trail provides stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including the magnificent Makalu itself.
  • As we gain altitude, the air becomes thinner, and it's essential to take it slowly and stay well-hydrated.
  • The route may involve crossing several small streams and moraines, adding to the adventure of the trek.
  • After approximately 5 hours of trekking, we'll reach Mumbuk, a small settlement nestled amidst the mountains at an altitude of 3,570 meters.

Overnight in Mumbuk.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
3570

Trek from Mumbuk to Neh Kharkha (3,700 m - 6 hrs trek):

  • After breakfast in Mumbuk, begin our trek towards Neh Kharkha. The trail continues to ascend through rugged terrain and alpine landscapes.
  • We'll be surrounded by majestic peaks and glaciers as we trek through this high-altitude region.
  • The route may involve crossing several small streams and rocky moraines, so be prepared for some challenging sections.
  • The trail provides opportunities for wildlife sightings, including Himalayan birds and rare animals that inhabit the region.
  • As we gain altitude, we may notice the temperature dropping, so dress accordingly in layers to stay comfortable during the trek.
  • After around 6 hours of trekking, we'll reach Neh Kharkha, a picturesque campsite surrounded by stunning mountain vistas, at an altitude of 3,700 meters.

Overnight in Neh Kharkha.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
3700

 

Trek from Neh Kharka to Sherson (4,615 m - 7 hrs trek):

  • After breakfast in Neh Kharka, begin our trek towards Sherson. The trail continues to ascend through the breathtaking landscapes of the high Himalayas.
  • As we gain altitude, we'll be treated to stunning views of the towering peaks, including the majestic Makalu itself.
  • The route may involve crossing rocky moraines and glacial terrain, adding to the adventure of the trek.
  • The trail offers panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains and glaciers, creating an awe-inspiring atmosphere.
  • We'll also pass by the prominent Barun Glacier, which adds to the grandeur of the trekking route.
  • After approximately 7 hours of trekking, we'll reach Sherson, a high-altitude campsite offering unparalleled views of the surrounding peaks, at an altitude of 4,615 meters.

Overnight in Sherson.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
4615

Trek from Sherson to Makalu Base Camp (5,000 m - 4/5 hrs trek):

  • After breakfast in Sherson, begin our trek towards Makalu Base Camp. The trail continues to ascend through the rugged and remote landscapes of the high Himalayas.
  • As we approach Makalu Base Camp, we'l be surrounded by towering peaks and massive glaciers, creating a surreal and awe-inspiring atmosphere.
  • The trail may involve crossing glacial terrain, and we may need to navigate through icy sections with the help of our trekking team.
  • As we reach higher elevations, the air becomes thinner, so it's crucial to take it slowly and focus on maintaining steady breathing.
  • After approximately 4 to 5 hours of trekking, we'll reach Makalu Base Camp, a high-altitude campsite situated at an impressive elevation of 5,000 meters.

Overnight at Makalu Base Camp.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Tented Camp
Elevation
5000

Exploring Makalu Base Camp is a remarkable experience, offering breathtaking views of some of the world's highest peaks and pristine glacial landscapes. Here's what you can expect while exploring Makalu Base Camp:

Scenic Beauty:

Makalu Base Camp is surrounded by stunning mountain vistas, including the majestic Makalu (8,485 meters), the fifth highest peak in the world. The campsite provides a panoramic view of other prominent peaks, such as Everest (8,848 meters), Lhotse (8,516 meters), and Baruntse (7,129 meters), among others.

Glacier Views:

Makalu Base Camp lies adjacent to the massive Barun Glacier, an impressive and awe-inspiring ice sheet. The glacier's ice formations and crevasses offer a glimpse into the dynamic and ever-changing nature of these icy giants.

Trekking and Climbing Activities:

For those with mountaineering aspirations, Makalu Base Camp is a launching point for summit attempts on Makalu. Climbers and mountaineers can acclimatize here and prepare for the technical challenges that lie ahead.

Photography Opportunities:

The picturesque landscapes of Makalu Base Camp provide incredible opportunities for photography. The play of light on the snow-capped peaks during sunrise and sunset is particularly stunning.

Exploring the Surroundings:

We can take short hikes or excursions around the base camp to explore the nearby terrain. Our trekking guides can lead us to viewpoints or vantage points for even better views of the mountains.

Interaction with Climbers and Trekkers:

Makalu Base Camp attracts climbers and trekkers from around the world, providing a chance to meet fellow adventurers and share experiences.

Experience High-Altitude Camping:

Camping at such high altitudes is an adventure in itself. The nights are typically cold, so we'll need to be prepared with appropriate gear to stay warm and comfortable.

Respect for the Environment:

While exploring Makalu Base Camp, it's essential to practice responsible trekking and leave no trace behind. Respect the fragile environment and adhere to the principles of Leave No Trace to preserve the pristine beauty of this region.

Altitude Considerations:

Keep in mind that Makalu Base Camp is situated at a high altitude of around 5,000 meters. Take necessary precautions for acclimatization and be aware of altitude-related symptoms.

Overnight stay in Makalu Base Camp.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Tented Camp
Elevation
5000

Taking a rest day at Makalu Base Camp is crucial for proper acclimatization and ensuring the well-being of trekkers and climbers.

Here's what a rest day at Makalu Base Camp might look like:

Rest Day at Makalu Base Camp:

  • On the rest day, we'll wake up at our leisure and have a relaxed breakfast.
  • The primary goal of the rest day is to allow your body to adjust to the high altitude at Makalu Base Camp (5,000 meters). It helps to reduce the risk of altitude-related illnesses and enhances our chances of successfully continuing the expedition.
  • During the day, we can engage in light activities around the base camp, such as short walks or gentle hikes to nearby viewpoints. However, it's essential not to overexert ourself and conserve energy.
  • Spend time enjoying the breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers, as well as the serene atmosphere of the high Himalayas.
  • Our trekking team or expedition leaders may organize informative sessions about the upcoming phases of the expedition, climbing strategies, and safety protocols.
  • Rest days also provide an opportunity for camaraderie with other climbers and trekkers at the base camp, exchanging stories and experiences.
  • Throughout the day, ensure we stay well-hydrated and consume nutritious meals to aid in acclimatization and maintain our energy levels.

Overnight stay in  Makalu Base Camp.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Tented Camp
Elevation
5000

During the climbing period for Makalu (8,463 meters), which typically spans from Day 16 to Day 45 of the expedition, climbers focus on making their summit push and attempting to reach the summit of the fifth highest peak in the world.

Here's what the climbing period might entail:

Day 16-20: Ascent to Higher Camps:

  • We and our support teams will establish higher camps along the climbing route to Makalu's summit. This process involves carrying necessary equipment and supplies to the higher camps and progressively ascending to acclimatize to the extreme altitude.

Day 21-35: Summit Attempts and Acclimatization:

  • We begin their summit attempts during this period. The ascent to the summit typically involves multiple rotations between higher camps and Base Camp to aid in acclimatization and prepare for the final push.
  • Weather conditions and the overall health and acclimatization status of the climbers play a crucial role in determining when summit attempts are made. We must be prepared to wait for favorable weather windows before making their final push.

Day 36-45: Summit Push and Descend:

  • The final summit push begins once a suitable weather window is forecasted, indicating safe and favorable climbing conditions.
  • We embark on a grueling ascent, navigating challenging sections, including steep slopes and technical terrain.
  • Reaching the summit of Makalu is a significant achievement and requires strong physical and mental endurance.
  • After successfully summiting, We begin our descent to lower camps, making sure to descend safely and efficiently.
  • Upon returning to Base Camp, climbers celebrate their achievement and start the process of packing up and preparing for the return journey.

Overnight stay in Tented Camp.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Tented Camp
Elevation
5000

The trek back from Makalu Base Camp to Neh Kharka is a reverse of the earlier route taken during the ascent.

Trek from Makalu Base Camp to Neh Kharka (3,700 m - 6-7 hrs trek):

  • After celebrating our successful summit of Makalu and bidding farewell to the Base Camp, begin our descent towards Neh Kharka.
  • The trail retraces the path taken during the ascent, taking us through the glacial terrain and rocky moraines.
  • As we descend, we'll be able to enjoy the breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers from different perspectives.
  • The descent can be physically demanding on our knees and legs, so trekking poles are helpful for stability and support.
  • After approximately 6 to 7 hours of trekking, we'll reach Neh Kharka, a lower-altitude campsite nestled in the high Himalayas.

Overnight in Neh Kharka.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
3700

Trek from Neh Kharka to Mumbuk (3,570 m - 6 hrs trek):

  • After breakfast in Neh Kharka, begin our trek back towards Mumbuk. The trail descends through rugged terrain and alpine landscapes, retracing our steps from the ascent.
  • Enjoy the magnificent views of the surrounding mountains as we make our way down the mountain.
  • The descent might involve crossing rocky moraines and crossing small streams, adding to the adventure of the trek.
  • After around 6 hours of trekking, we'll  reach Mumbuk, a small settlement nestled amidst the mountains, at an altitude of 3,570 meters.

Overnight in Mumbuk.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
3570

Trek from Mumbuk to Kauma (3,470 m - 5 hrs trek):

  • After breakfast in Mumbuk, start our trek back towards Kauma. The trail gradually descends through the beautiful landscapes of the high Himalayas.
  • Enjoy the serene surroundings and the spectacular views of the surrounding peaks as we make our way down the mountain.
  • The descent might include passing through rhododendron and bamboo forests, offering refreshing shades during the journey.
  • We'll also cross several small streams and enjoy the lush greenery of the lower altitudes.
  • After approximately 5 hours of trekking, we'll reach Kauma, a high-altitude grazing area with stunning views of the surrounding hills and mountains.

Overnight in Kauma.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
3470

 

Trek from Kauma to Tashi Gaon (2,070 m - 6 hrs trek):

  • After breakfast in Kauma, begin our trek back towards Tashi Gaon. The trail descends through the picturesque landscapes of the Makalu region.
  • We'll retrace the path taken during the ascent, passing through alpine vegetation and charming villages along the way.
  • Enjoy the stunning views of the surrounding hills and mountains as we descend to lower altitudes.
  • The descent might involve crossing small streams and terraced fields, offering a pleasant and scenic journey.
  • After approximately 6 hours of trekking, we'll reach Tashi Gaon, a picturesque village nestled amidst the hills, at an altitude of 2,070 meters.

Overnight in Tashi Gaon.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
2070

Trek from Tashi Gaon to Pakuwa (1,520 m - 6 hrs trek)

  • After breakfast in Tashi Gaon, begin our trek towards Pakuwa. The trail descends through lush forests and beautiful landscapes, offering a different experience from the higher altitudes.
  • We'll pass through charming villages and terraced fields, where we can interact with the local communities and experience their way of life.
  • Enjoy the scenic views of the surrounding hills and valleys as we make our way to lower elevations.
  • The trail can be uneven at times, so trek carefully and enjoy the natural beauty of the region.
  • After approximately 6 hours of trekking, we'll reach Pakuwa, a small settlement situated at an altitude of 1,520 meters.

Overnight in Pakuwa.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
1520

Trek from Pakuwa to Bumlung (1,160 m - 5 hrs trek):

  • After breakfast in Pakuwa, begin our trek towards Bumlung. The trail continues to descend through the beautiful landscapes of the lower altitudes.
  • We'll pass through lush forests and terraced fields, witnessing the rural life of the local communities.
  • Enjoy the scenic views of the surrounding hills and valleys as we make our way to even lower elevations.
  • The trail may include crossing small streams and walking through charming villages along the way.
  • After approximately 5 hours of trekking, we'll reach Bumlung, a quaint village situated at an altitude of 1,160 meters.

Overnight in Bumlung.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
1160

Trek from Bumling to Tumlingtar (860 m - 5 hrs trek):

  • After breakfast in Bumling, begin our trek towards Tumlingtar. The trail continues to descend through the beautiful landscapes of the lowland region.
  • We'll walk through lush forests, terraced fields, and charming villages, providing a glimpse into the rural life of the local communities.
  • Enjoy the scenic views of the surrounding hills and valleys as we make our way to even lower elevations.
  • The trail may involve crossing small streams and walking on well-defined paths through the villages.
  • After approximately 5 hours of trekking, we'll reach Tumlingtar, a town situated at an altitude of 860 meters.

Overnight in Tumlingtar.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Trek Lodge
Elevation
860

Yes, after completing the trek and reaching Tumlingtar, we can fly back to Kathmandu. Tumlingtar has a domestic airport, and there are regular flights connecting Tumlingtar to Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport.

The flight from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu offers us a scenic aerial view of the landscapes we trekked through during our Makalu expedition. We'll get a bird's-eye view of the Himalayan mountains and the beautiful hills and valleys of Nepal.

Upon arrival in Kathmandu, we can relax, celebrate our successful expedition, and reflect on the incredible journey we've experienced. Kathmandu offers various accommodation options, restaurants, and cultural attractions to explore, making it an excellent place to unwind after a challenging trek.

Overnighth stay in Kathmandu.

Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
1345

Spending leisure time in Kathmandu offers a wonderful opportunity to explore the rich cultural heritage and vibrant atmosphere of Nepal's capital city. Here's a detailed itinerary for leisure activities in Kathmandu:

At Leisure in Kathmandu

  • Start your day with a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, savoring local Nepali delicacies and international cuisine.
  • Visit the famous Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, located in the heart of Kathmandu. Explore the ancient palaces, temples, and courtyards that reflect Nepal's history and architecture. Don't miss the intricately carved wooden windows and traditional Newari architecture.
  • Head to Thamel, the tourist hub of Kathmandu, known for its bustling streets, shops, restaurants, and cafes. Stroll through the colorful streets, shop for souvenirs, handicrafts, and traditional clothing, and experience the vibrant atmosphere.
  • Enjoy a traditional Nepali lunch at a local restaurant, trying dishes like momo (dumplings), dal bhat (rice and lentil soup), and Newari cuisine.
  • In the afternoon, you can visit the Swayambhunath Stupa, also known as the Monkey Temple, perched atop a hill. This iconic stupa offers panoramic views of Kathmandu city and a serene spiritual ambiance.
  • Explore the Boudhanath Stupa, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the largest stupas in Nepal and an important center for Tibetan Buddhism in Kathmandu.
  • If you are interested in art and history, you can visit the Patan Museum, displaying traditional artifacts and artworks from the Kathmandu Valley's ancient Newari civilization.
  • Enjoy a relaxing evening at Garden of Dreams, a neo-classical garden in the heart of Kathmandu. This tranquil space offers a peaceful escape from the city's hustle and bustle.
  • For dinner, treat yourself to a delightful meal at a rooftop restaurant in Thamel or any other part of the city. Savor the delicious flavors while enjoying the views of Kathmandu's twinkling lights.
  • End your day by immersing yourself in Kathmandu's vibrant nightlife. You can join in live music performances, cultural shows, or simply enjoy a drink at one of the city's cozy bars.
  • Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
Food
all meals during trek including tea and coffee 
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
1345

On your final day in Kathmandu, it's time to bid farewell to this beautiful city and depart for your onward journey.

Final Departure from Kathmandu

  • Depending on your flight schedule, enjoy a final breakfast at your hotel in Kathmandu.
  • Check-out from the hotel and ensure you have all your belongings packed and ready.
  • If you have some spare time before your flight, you can use it to explore any last-minute sights or do some souvenir shopping in Thamel or nearby markets.
  • Arrange for airport transportation in advance, either through your hotel or The World Expedition Nepal.
  • Head to Tribhuvan International Airport for your departure. The journey from central Kathmandu to the airport can take around 30 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic.
  • Allow sufficient time for check-in and security procedures at the airport.
  • As you bid goodbye to Nepal, take a moment to cherish the memories of your Makalu expedition and the experiences you had during your time in Kathmandu.
  • Board your flight and depart for your onward destination, carrying with you the sights, sounds, and warm hospitality of Nepal.
Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1345

Service Includes on Cost

Full Board Service Includes

 

  • Arrival and departure transfer services to and from the both domestic and international flight as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the international airport by World Expedition and Trekking while arriving and departing in Kathmandu.
  • 4 Nights Yak and Yeti or similar hotels accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
  • Experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period.
  • Schedule Flight Tickets for Kathmandu-Tumlingtar-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
  • All trekking and mountaineering equipment such as kitchen tent, stores tent, dining tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for advance base camp and camp II.
  • Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bar etc) 
  • Services of chef and kitchen assistant at base camp.
  • 3 meals a day: Breakfasts, lunch, and dinner with tea/coffee available at the tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking.
  • 3 fresh meals a day: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner will be served at the advanced base camp.
  • All food and fuel for base camp and the higher camps during the expedition for both members and crew.
  • 50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period, this will be carried by porters.
  • Daily weather report services from Seattle, Washington based company.
  • Trekking Permit (Makalu Barun National Park entry fee).
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Makalu (8485M).
  • Nepalese Government Royalty and fees.
  • One experienced, trained, government licensed, and 3x Everest summiteer climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client.
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs in trekking and expedition.
  • Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpa, chefs, kitchen assistants.
  • Equipment allowances and wages for government liaison officer.
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff.
  • Satellite phone carrying by guide for communication and available for members at a cost of$3USD per minute.
  • An appropriate amount of food for high altitude and at base camp and above as required.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
  • The heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
  • Emergency oxygen, mask, and regulator provided upon request of the client with appropriate charge.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
  • Solar panel for light and battery charging.
  • All tents for camp 1, 2, 3 and 4 for members and staff.
  • Icefall charges by SPCC
  • Gamow Bags (Portable Altitude Chamber).
  • 5 Bottles (28L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided each member (we use Poisk brands of the Oxygen).
  • The latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators.
  • World Expedition tents, food for climbing, and insurance for staff.
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa guide, chef and staff.
  • Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties.
  • Fresh cooked food and kitchen will be provided at camp II.
  • Trekking and Climbing map of Mount Makalu. 
  • EPI Cooking gas, the stove will be provided in camps one, three and south col for cooking food, boiling water.
  • The generator will be providing for back- up of lighting power and charging electronic tools.
  • Transportation of food supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu (Cargo to Lukla and then by porter/Yaks to base camp)
  • Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information
  • Flight ticket reconfirmation
  • Visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • World Expedition and Trekking special Gift

Service Excludes on Cost

Full Board Service Excludes

  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during the trekking.
  • Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in government regulations, etc.
  • Extra transportation then displayed in the itinerary program.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Walkie-talkies
  • Filming permit.
  • Personal climbing gears.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phone, and internet expenses
  • Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, camera/video fees or trekking gear.
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum $1000.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide.
  • Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance on arrival in Kathmandu)
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Any other item not included in the Cost Includes section.
  • EQUIPMENTS

Makalu Expedition Altitude Profile

Makalu Expedition (FAQs)

Climbing Makalu is a challenging and technically demanding expedition. It presents various difficulties that make it a formidable climb even for experienced mountaineers. Here are the key difficulties encountered during a Makalu Expedition:

Altitude:

Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world, with an elevation of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet). Climbers face the challenges of high altitude, where the air is thin and oxygen levels are significantly lower. Acclimatization is crucial to adapt the body to the extreme altitude and prevent altitude-related illnesses.

Technical Climbing:

Makalu's routes involve technical climbing on mixed terrain, including steep snow and ice slopes, rock faces, and seracs. Climbers need to be skilled in ice and rock climbing techniques and proficient in using climbing gear such as crampons, ice axes, and ropes.

Climbing Conditions:

The weather on Makalu can be highly unpredictable, with frequent storms, strong winds, and extreme cold. Climbers must be prepared to endure harsh conditions and plan their ascent during the best weather window.

Objective Dangers:

Makalu has objective dangers such as avalanches, serac collapses, and rockfall. Climbers need to assess and mitigate these risks, especially while passing through dangerous sections like the seracs of the Makalu La.

Route Finding:

Finding the safest and most efficient route on Makalu can be challenging due to the complex terrain and crevassed glaciers. Climbers and their guides must have excellent route-finding skills.

Remote Location:

Makalu is located in a remote and isolated region of Nepal, far from major towns and facilities. Access to the mountain involves trekking through rugged and challenging terrain, adding to the logistical complexities.

Physical and Mental Endurance:

Climbing Makalu requires peak physical fitness, mental resilience, and the ability to endure prolonged periods of physical exertion at high altitude.

Limited Facilities:

Base Camp facilities are more basic compared to Everest's South or North Base Camp, and climbers must be prepared for a more self-sufficient and remote experience.

Experience Requirements:

Due to the technical nature of the climb and the high-altitude challenges, climbers attempting Makalu must have significant high-altitude mountaineering experience, preferably with successful climbs of 8,000-meter peaks.

The best months for the Makalu Expedition are generally in the spring and autumn seasons. These months offer more favorable weather conditions and increased chances of a successful summit. The two primary climbing seasons for Makalu are as follows:

Spring Season (April to May):

  • April and May are the most popular months for the Makalu Expedition.
  • During this time, the weather is relatively stable, with lower chances of storms and precipitation.
  • The temperatures are milder at lower altitudes, making the approach trek more comfortable.
  • The spring season provides good snow conditions for climbing, and the crevasses are usually well-covered, making the ascent safer.

Autumn Season (September to November):

  • September, October, and November are the second-best months for climbing Makalu.
  • The autumn season offers stable weather conditions and clear skies, providing excellent visibility for climbers.
  • The temperatures are moderate, and the days are generally dry, making the climbing conditions favorable.
  • The autumn season is also less crowded compared to the spring, allowing for a quieter and more serene climbing experience.

 

Yes, altitude sickness is a significant concern during the Makalu Expedition, as it is a high-altitude climb that reaches extreme elevations. Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world, with an elevation of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) at its summit. Altitude sickness, also known as acute mountain sickness (AMS), can occur when climbers ascend to high altitudes too quickly without giving their bodies enough time to acclimatize.

Altitude sickness is caused by the decreased air pressure and lower oxygen levels at high altitudes. Common symptoms of AMS include headache, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, loss of appetite, and difficulty sleeping. In more severe cases, high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high-altitude cerebral edema (HACE) can occur, which are life-threatening conditions that require immediate descent and medical attention.

Proper acclimatization is crucial for reducing the risk of altitude sickness during the Makalu Expedition. Climbers typically follow a gradual ascent profile, spending several days at intermediate camps to allow their bodies to adjust to the altitude. Adequate rest, hydration, and nutrition are also essential for acclimatization.

The first successful ascent of Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain in the world, was achieved by a French expedition team on May 15, 1955. The team was led by Jean Franco and included Lionel Terray, Jean Couzy, Franco Magnone, Gyalzen Norbu (a Sherpa climber), and other team members. They approached the mountain from the southeast side and established their base camp in the Makalu-La region. After a series of challenging climbs and facing adverse weather conditions, Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy reached the summit of Makalu, making history as the first climbers to conquer the peak. Their successful ascent of Makalu marked a significant achievement in the world of mountaineering and added another remarkable feat to the annals of Himalayan climbing.

Climbing difficulty is subjective and can vary depending on various factors such as the chosen route, weather conditions, and individual climber's experience and skill level. Both Makalu and Everest are among the world's highest and most challenging mountains, and each presents its own unique set of difficulties. Comparing the difficulty of Makalu and Everest is complex, as it depends on the specific route chosen for each mountain.

Makalu is known for its technical climbing challenges, especially on the French route, which includes steep ice and rock sections. The approach to Makalu also involves a difficult and exposed traverse through the treacherous Makalu-La region.

On the other hand, Everest is known for its high altitude and lengthy climbing duration, with the standard South Col route involving the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, and the Lhotse Face. Everest is also notorious for its unpredictable weather and high-altitude risks.

The difficulty of climbing Mount Everest can vary depending on the route chosen, but both the Tibetan and Nepalese sides present their own unique challenges.

Everest from Nepal (South Col Route):

  • The South Col route from Nepal is the most popular and commonly used route to climb Everest. It is the route that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first summited in 1953.
  • The route involves technical climbing challenges, such as the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, and Lhotse Face. The Khumbu Icefall is particularly notorious for its crevasses and seracs, making it one of the most dangerous sections of the climb.
  • Camps are established at strategic points, including Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, and Camp 4 (South Col), to facilitate acclimatization and the summit push.
  • The South Col route is generally considered more challenging due to the Khumbu Icefall's complexities and the overall route's higher number of climbers and traffic.

Everest from Tibet (North Col Route):

  • The North Col route from Tibet is less crowded and sees fewer climbers compared to the Nepalese side.
  • The approach from Tibet involves a drive to the Chinese Base Camp, followed by a trek and climb to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) on the North Col.
  • The North Col route involves technical challenges, such as the North Col couloir and the Second Step, which is a rocky section with a ladder, as well as the famous Hillary Step, although the latter is now partially collapsed.
  • The route generally has less objective dangers, such as serac hazards, compared to the Nepalese side.

There is no permanent helipad at the Makalu Base Camp. The Base Camp of Makalu is located in a remote and rugged terrain at a high altitude, which makes it challenging for helicopters to land directly at the campsite.

However, in certain situations, helicopters can be used for logistics and emergency purposes during Makalu expeditions. Helicopters can be used to transport equipment, supplies, and support staff to higher camps or other locations closer to the Base Camp. They can also be utilized for emergency evacuations in case of severe injuries or medical emergencies.

The Makalu region is relatively remote and lacks the same level of infrastructure and facilities as more popular tourist areas. As a result, credit card facilities may not be widely available during the Makalu Expedition.

In the larger towns and cities of Nepal, such as Kathmandu and Pokhara, credit cards are generally accepted in hotels, restaurants, and some shops. However, as you move into more remote and less developed areas, including the Makalu region, the availability of credit card payment facilities diminishes.

Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located in the Himalayas, on the border between Nepal and China. It is a challenging peak to climb and generally requires experienced mountaineers to attempt it. 

For a Makalu expedition, it is highly recommended to have a team of experienced climbers, guides, and porters to ensure safety, logistics, and success. Here's why:

Complexity and Difficulty:

Makalu is a technically demanding peak to climb, with challenging terrain, avalanches, and other hazards. Having experienced guides who know the route, have climbed the mountain before, and understand the challenges involved is crucial for your safety.

Altitude and Acclimatization:

Climbers need to go through a proper acclimatization process to adapt to high altitudes. Experienced guides can help you with this process and recognize signs of altitude sickness or other health issues.

Logistics and Supplies:

Expeditions to Makalu require a significant amount of equipment and supplies. Porters can help carry the heavy loads, allowing climbers to focus on climbing and not be weighed down by excessive gear.

Local Knowledge and Permits:

Guides and expedition companies have a good understanding of the local regulations, permit requirements, and liaison with the Nepali government and authorities, which is essential for a smooth expedition.

Emergency Situations:

In case of any emergencies or accidents, experienced guides can provide immediate assistance and evacuation plans.

Environmental and Cultural Considerations:

Local guides and porters often have a deeper understanding of the local culture and environment, promoting responsible and sustainable mountaineering practices.

Additional Information

Climbing Makalu is a challenging and demanding expedition that requires specialized clothing, gear, and climbing equipment to ensure safety and success. Here is a detailed list of the essential items needed for a Makalu Expedition:

Clothing:

Base Layers:

  • Moisture-wicking and quick-drying long-sleeve shirts and pants for trekking and climbing.
  • Thermal tops and bottoms for added insulation at higher altitudes.

Insulating Layers:

  • Down or synthetic insulated jacket for warmth during rest breaks and at high altitudes.
  • Fleece or softshell jackets and pants for added insulation and flexibility.

Shell Layers:

  • Waterproof and breathable Gore-Tex or similar shell jacket with a hood for protection against wind and precipitation.
  • Waterproof and breathable shell pants for protection against snow and rain.

Climbing Specific Clothing:

  • Climbing pants designed for mobility and durability.
  • Climbing gloves for protection and grip during ice and rock climbing.

Headwear:

  • Warm beanie or balaclava for cold conditions.
  • Sun hat or cap for sun protection.
  • Glacier sunglasses with UV protection.
  • Ski goggles for added eye protection at high altitudes.

Footwear:

  • Sturdy mountaineering boots suitable for climbing on mixed terrain and using crampons.
  • Gaiters to keep snow and debris out of boots.

Gear and Climbing Equipment:

  • Climbing Harness: A comfortable and adjustable harness for safety during climbing and rappelling.

  • Carabiners: Locking and non-locking carabiners for attaching gear and for rope management.

  • Climbing Helmet: A durable and well-fitted climbing helmet for head protection.

  • Crampons: Technical crampons designed for mountaineering on ice and snow.

  • Ice Axe: A mountaineering ice axe for self-arrest and for technical ice climbing.

  • Climbing Rope: Dynamic climbing ropes suitable for roped climbing.

  • Ascenders and Descenders: Devices for ascending and descending fixed ropes.

  • Snow Protection: Snow pickets and snow stakes for securing ropes on snow slopes.

  • Belay Device: Belay device for belaying climbers during roped climbing.

  • Rappel Device: Rappel device for descending on fixed ropes.

  • Ice Screws: Ice screws for protection on ice sections.

  • Prusik Loops: Prusik loops for self-rescue and crevasse rescue.

  • Snow Shovel: Compact and lightweight snow shovel for snow digging and avalanche safety.

  • Avalanche Transceiver: An avalanche transceiver for avalanche rescue.

  • Climbing Pack: A durable and spacious climbing pack for carrying gear and personal items.

  • Sleeping Bag: A high-quality down sleeping bag suitable for extreme cold temperatures.

  • Sleeping Pad: An insulated sleeping pad for comfort and warmth during camping.

  • Trekking Poles: Trekking poles for support during trekking and climbing.

Miscellaneous:

  • First Aid Kit: A comprehensive first aid kit with medications, bandages, and medical supplies.
  • High-Altitude Medications: Medications for altitude sickness prevention and treatment.
  • Communication Devices: Satellite phone or radios for communication in remote areas.
  • Headlamp: A powerful headlamp with extra batteries for use during early morning starts and night climbing.
  • Water Bottles: Insulated water bottles to prevent freezing at high altitudes.
  • Sunscreen and Lip Balm: Sunscreen with high SPF and lip balm with UV protection.
  • Personal Items: Personal toiletries, camera, and other personal items.

During the Makalu Expedition, food and accommodation are crucial aspects of ensuring the climbers' well-being and success on the mountain. Here's what you can expect regarding food and accommodation during the expedition:

Food:

  • Base Camp: Base Camp serves as the main headquarters for the expedition. It is equipped with dining tents and kitchen facilities to provide meals for the climbers and support staff. Expedition teams usually have a team of cooks and kitchen staff who prepare a variety of meals to cater to different tastes and dietary preferences. The meals at Base Camp typically include a combination of local and international dishes, such as pasta, rice, soups, vegetables, meats, and snacks.

  • High Camps: As climbers move higher on the mountain, the availability of fresh food becomes limited due to logistical challenges. At higher camps, climbers mainly rely on pre-packaged, dehydrated, and lightweight meals. These meals are easy to carry and require minimal cooking time, making them suitable for the high-altitude environment.

  • Snacks and Supplements: Climbers also carry a variety of energy bars, snacks, and nutritional supplements to keep their energy levels up during the climb. These items provide quick and easily digestible calories to sustain them during strenuous climbing activities.

  • Hydration: Proper hydration is crucial at high altitudes. Expedition teams carry enough water and use water purification methods to ensure a safe and ample supply of drinking water. Staying hydrated is essential to prevent altitude-related illnesses.

Accommodation:

  • Base Camp: Base Camp is the main accommodation site during the expedition. It consists of spacious tents equipped with comfortable sleeping pads or cots for climbers and support staff. Base Camp facilities are designed to provide a relatively comfortable environment despite the rugged terrain.

  • High Camps: At higher camps, climbers use specialized high-altitude tents that are lightweight, durable, and designed to withstand harsh weather conditions. These tents are essential for providing protection and shelter during the climbing phase.

  • Kathmandu Accommodation: In Kathmandu, climbers and support teams stay at comfortable hotels or guesthouses before and after the expedition. These accommodations provide a more relaxed environment for rest, preparation, and post-expedition celebration.

For the Makalu Expedition, several permit documents are required to ensure proper authorization for climbing in the Makalu region. Here are the main permit documents needed:

Climbing Permit for Makalu:

  • The climbing permit is the primary authorization document required for the Makalu Expedition. It is issued by the Nepali government through the Department of Tourism (DoT).
  • The climbing permit grants permission to climb Makalu and specifies the climbing period and the number of climbers in the expedition team.

TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) Card:

  • The TIMS card is required for all trekkers and climbers in Nepal, including those participating in the Makalu Expedition.
  • It is issued to manage trekking information and ensure the safety and security of trekkers and climbers.

Sagarmatha National Park Permit:

  • Since Makalu is located in the Makalu Barun National Park, climbers need a Sagarmatha National Park Permit.
  • This permit is issued to support conservation efforts and manage the environmental impact of tourism in the national park.

Makalu Conservation Area Permit:

  • Additionally, climbers need a Makalu Conservation Area Permit (MCAP) for entry into the Makalu region, which falls within the Makalu Barun Conservation Area.
  • The MCAP helps support conservation initiatives in the area and promotes sustainable tourism.

The cost of the Makalu Expedition can vary significantly depending on various factors, including the trekking agency or expedition organizer, the level of support and services provided, the number of climbers in the team, and the length of the expedition. The cost for a well-organized Makalu Expedition can range from $30,000 to $50,000 or more per person.

The cost typically includes various components such as:

  • Climbing Permits: The cost of climbing permits, including the climbing permit for Makalu, Sagarmatha National Park Permit, and Makalu Conservation Area Permit.
  • Expedition Support: Fees for experienced climbing guides, support staff, and porters.
  • Accommodation and Meals: Costs for accommodation and meals during the trekking and climbing phases, including at Base Camp and higher camps.
  • Logistics: Expenses related to transportation to and from Kathmandu, airport transfers, and domestic flights to the nearest airstrip.
  • Climbing Equipment: Rental or purchase of climbing gear and equipment, such as ropes, ice axes, crampons, harnesses, and tents.
  • Expedition Services: Costs for setting up Base Camp facilities, communication equipment, medical supplies, and emergency rescue arrangements.
  • Insurance: Travel insurance that includes coverage for high-altitude climbing, medical evacuation, and emergency rescue.
  • Miscellaneous: Additional expenses for trekking and climbing logistics, visa fees, gratuities for support staff, and personal expenses.
Price Per Person
US$ 21000 US$ 19100
Day 55
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